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#1 Eva Victoria

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Posted 24 February 2008 - 06:14 PM


After many questions what my own skincare regime is, I decided to make it public. Even though I have to underline that even if it might work for me it is no guarantee that it'll work for you.
My skincare regime is based on thorough scientific reasarch of many years and it changes constantly according to the latest researches.

I divided my regime into 3 categories:
Prevent (AM)/Repair(PM)
Protect
Moisturize


Thorough cleansing is a must for good skin.
I prefer MDFormulations Glycolic cleanser with 14% AHA at PM. (But it might be too harsh for someone with sensitive skin). Morning: I use a light rinse-off cleanser (curently Clinique: Redness Solutions).
I don't use toners. They are a waste of money and if they contain alcohol they can be very drying.

AM.
PREVENT:

1. Use a mix of 20% Azaleic acid+ 12% AHA+ 12% stable Vit. C in a light cream. (This is a potent anti-oxidant coctail, made by myself).
2. Use a thin layer of a serum (which I made myself) silicone based with 15% pure Olive-leaf extract (high in antioxidants).
MOISTURIZE:
Use Cllinique Continous Rescue AntiOxidant Moisturizer (rich in EUKARION-134 and Ferulic acid: antioxidants). I choose the formula that fits the day (since in Scandinavia in the winter you`ll need a richer consistency than in the warmer months).
PROTECT:
I use a sunscreen SPF50, UVA 32 (full UVA prot. up to 400nm)(designed by myself, produced at the manufacturer) which is based on TinosorbM+S filters, Avobenzone, micronized TiO2 and ZnO (not micronized). It is extremely light fast drying fluid which leaves the skin mat with a very nice sheen. Do hope one day all of you will be able to use this sunscreen as well :) (working very hard on it!)
But til then the closest you`ll get to it by using Nivea Light Sensation Sunscreen.
Sometimes I use an inorganic sunscreen blend (designed by me) which is based on silicone with micronized TiO2+ non-micro. ZnO. (SPF50, UVA 20-full UVA prot. up to 520nm).

I don't wear make up (like foundation). (Don't need to).

PM
REPAIR:
First thing after cleansing I`ll apply Retin-A (0,05% tretinoin) in a thin layer every night. It'll repair the damage that occurred during the day.
After 20 min:
PROTECT/MOISTURIZE:
I`ll apply Prevage MD (1% idebenone which was proven to be a good antioxidant and hydrator).

If I am dry (sometimes) I'll additionally use a light moisturizer with 5% stable Vit.-C.

Am almost 38 but it is very rare that people judge me over 25. It can of course, be a hassle as well since it is more difficult to take one seriously when one is/ looks young.

Have used sunscreens (mainly TiO2+ZnO) all my life (thanks God to a maniac biochemist father) which I am now very greatfull for :)
Retin-A I have used for almost 10 years every day.
When I was screened for UV damage 2 weeks ago, there was none! The quality of my skin (judged by a practiced dermatologist) was 18 years old.

So if it is not enough to convince anyone to use a good sunscreen and Retin-A every day, you tell me what is! :~

Edited by Eva Victoria, 24 February 2008 - 06:15 PM.

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#2 pseudo-princess

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Posted 12 May 2008 - 10:05 PM

Definitely an interesting read, wish the serum and sunscreen that you made yourself was available to the public. :|w
Since your sunscreen doesn't contain octocrylene, octylmethoxycinnamate, and benzophenone-3, how often do you apply it?
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#3 zoolander

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Posted 12 May 2008 - 10:50 PM

After all that Eva you're going to have to show us some recent photos. Personally, I'd like to see the outcome.
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#4 VictorBjoerk

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Posted 12 May 2008 - 10:56 PM

Yes,post some photos :|w
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#5 Eva Victoria

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Posted 15 May 2008 - 02:34 PM

See my profile there is one

Yes,post some photos :)


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#6 pseudo-princess

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Posted 15 May 2008 - 08:56 PM

Looks like it's working!
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#7 LIB

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Posted 16 May 2008 - 03:56 AM

Thanks for sharing all your knowledge!!
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#8 Eva Victoria

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Posted 17 May 2008 - 02:21 PM

Every 2 h of course! If I am outside for a longer period of time I try to apply it every hour.


Definitely an interesting read, wish the serum and sunscreen that you made yourself was available to the public. :|?
Since your sunscreen doesn't contain octocrylene, octylmethoxycinnamate, and benzophenone-3, how often do you apply it?


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#9 Forever21

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Posted 28 June 2008 - 05:30 AM

So here's the shopping list :)


-light rinse-off cleanser (curently Clinique: Redness Solutions).

-MDFormulations Glycolic cleanser with 14% AHA at PM

-a mix of 20% Azaleic acid+ 12% AHA+ 12% stable Vit. C in a light cream. (This is a potent anti-oxidant coctail, made by myself).

-a thin layer of a serum (which I made myself) silicone based with 15% pure Olive-leaf extract (high in antioxidants).

-Cllinique Continous Rescue AntiOxidant Moisturizer (rich in EUKARION-134 and Ferulic acid: antioxidants

-sunscreen SPF50, UVA 32 (full UVA prot. up to 400nm)(designed by myself, produced at the manufacturer) which is based on TinosorbM+S filters, Avobenzone, micronized TiO2 and ZnO (not micronized).

-Nivea Light Sensation Sunscreen

-an inorganic sunscreen blend (designed by me) which is based on silicone with micronized TiO2+ non-micro. ZnO. (SPF50, UVA 20-full UVA prot. up to 520nm).

-Retin-A (0,05% tretinoin)

-Prevage MD (1% idebenone which was proven to be a good antioxidant and hydrator).

-a light moisturizer with 5% stable Vit.-C.


Hello Eva,

Thanks for posting your regimen.

I wanna get them all. The only one I have is Tretinoin 0.1.

For the ones you made, are they all available for order?

For the others, can they be obtained from Canada? (or order from the net?)

Thanks.

God I love ImmInst.

Edited by Forever21, 28 June 2008 - 05:33 AM.

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#10 Eva Victoria

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Posted 28 June 2008 - 10:45 AM

Hi Forever21!

If you are still young and don't have any problems with your skin, I would recommend a good cleanser (wash-off),
AM: Clinique: Continuous rescue antioxidant moisturizer, Sunscreen (Bioderma or Nivea, La Roche-Posay EU).

PM:
Tretionoin (0,5%)
simple moisturizer

Sometimes if your skin is not performing properly a good Vit-C serum (La Roche Posay) can also be added in the morning just after cleansing and before moisturizing.

The serums I made are not really for sale. And the only one I am still using is a high concentration VitC (25% active).
If you would like to have any of them I can send you the ingredients list and you can get it made at the local pharmacy.

I think it should be sufficient to use Clinique: Continuous rescue antioxidant moisturizer and a Sunscreen plus Tretinoin (Retin/Renova) only.
Too much is not always better (I speak from experience) :)

Good EU sunscreens you can find online shipping everywhere:

Nivea Light Feeling Sensation SPF50 UVA 20 (measured in vivo in the lab), (According to Beiersdorf:UVA50,DIN standard) (OMC, TinosorbS, AVO, TiO2, Ensulizole, Ethylhexyl Tirazone with Microbeeds: OMC+AVO: it makes the sunscreen stay on the surface of the skin and gives a beautiful semi-matte finish to the skin that actually looks better than with make-up on!)

http://www.chemistdirect.co.uk

Bioderma: Photoderm MAX Fluide SPF50+ UVA 35 with TinosorbM+S,M, AVO, OCR

These Sunscreens are only available in the EU! Both follow the recommended European Sunscreen Standards! (See Colipa)
Can be order online with shipping to the US

http://www.frenchcosmeticsforless.com





So here's the shopping list :p


-light rinse-off cleanser (curently Clinique: Redness Solutions).

-MDFormulations Glycolic cleanser with 14% AHA at PM

-a mix of 20% Azaleic acid+ 12% AHA+ 12% stable Vit. C in a light cream. (This is a potent anti-oxidant coctail, made by myself).

-a thin layer of a serum (which I made myself) silicone based with 15% pure Olive-leaf extract (high in antioxidants).

-Cllinique Continous Rescue AntiOxidant Moisturizer (rich in EUKARION-134 and Ferulic acid: antioxidants

-sunscreen SPF50, UVA 32 (full UVA prot. up to 400nm)(designed by myself, produced at the manufacturer) which is based on TinosorbM+S filters, Avobenzone, micronized TiO2 and ZnO (not micronized).

-Nivea Light Sensation Sunscreen

-an inorganic sunscreen blend (designed by me) which is based on silicone with micronized TiO2+ non-micro. ZnO. (SPF50, UVA 20-full UVA prot. up to 520nm).

-Retin-A (0,05% tretinoin)

-Prevage MD (1% idebenone which was proven to be a good antioxidant and hydrator).

-a light moisturizer with 5% stable Vit.-C.


Hello Eva,

Thanks for posting your regimen.

I wanna get them all. The only one I have is Tretinoin 0.1.

For the ones you made, are they all available for order?

For the others, can they be obtained from Canada? (or order from the net?)

Thanks.

God I love ImmInst.


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#11 Forever21

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Posted 28 June 2008 - 12:31 PM

Got it. I'll keep it simple for now.

Cleanser, moisturizer, sunscreen & tretinoin.

Thanks. You're awesome!!!
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#12 spacey

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Posted 29 June 2008 - 12:46 AM

Since I don't have a prescription for Retin-A, could you use Differin(adapalene) to substitute it for PM reperation? I know that Differin is not one of the stronger retinoids but my skin is still young.
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#13 Ben

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Posted 29 June 2008 - 02:52 AM

Since I don't have a prescription for Retin-A, could you use Differin(adapalene) to substitute it for PM reperation? I know that Differin is not one of the stronger retinoids but my skin is still young.


who needs a prescription. Alldaychemist.com and a little initiative are all you need.
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#14 Eva Victoria

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Posted 29 June 2008 - 10:33 AM

Differin does not work the same way on receptors as Tretinoin,
you should talk to a dermatologist if you consider using RetinA.


Since I don't have a prescription for Retin-A, could you use Differin(adapalene) to substitute it for PM reperation? I know that Differin is not one of the stronger retinoids but my skin is still young.


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#15 Benae

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Posted 29 June 2008 - 11:46 AM

Eva, I've been trying to locate the Nivea sunscreen you have recommended, "Nivea Light Feeling Sensation SPF50-UVA20". When searching ChemistDirect for this product the closest I get is "Nivea Sun Light Feeling Sun Lotion SPF50". The ingredient list is not provided and the UVA amount is not stated. Is this the same product you are referring to although not the exact name, perhaps a name change?
http://www.chemistdi...50_1_11779.html
I was particularly interested in the Nivea you refer to since you have stated that it provides a "semi-matte finish that looks better than with make-up".

Anyone else ordered the Nivea that Eva recommends and shipped to USA? I am particularly interested in a place to order from that list the ingredients.

Barbara
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#16 Eva Victoria

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Posted 29 June 2008 - 04:31 PM

It is indeed the same product.
In the UK its UVA protection is rated ***** (5 stars) by the Boots-rating system which is widely used in the UK. It is the maximum stars possible. It means ULTRA UVA protection. (Which I did not find when we tested this product in vivo in the lab :( hence I rated it UVA20, which gives ***: GOOD)

For further info on UVA-ratings please see the link:

http://sun1.awardspa...s/Standards.htm

About the shipping from Chemistonline was extremely slow even to Norway. It took 3 weeks to get 3 bottles of Nivea Sun Light Feeling Sun Lotion SPF50 :( It can of course be because Norway is not in the EU and it had to be declared by the Norwegian customs.

Here is the ingredients list for SPF 50: art nr: 85768
WATER (AQUA), ALCOHOL DENAT, ALCYL BENZOATE, OCTYLDODECANOL, BUTYL
METHOXYDIBENZOYLMETHANE, OCTOCRYLENE, TITANIUM DIOXIDE, METHYLENE BISBIS-ETHYLHEXYLOXYPHENOL METHOXYPHENYL TRIAZINE, SODIUM, PHENYLBENZIMIDAZOLE SULFONATE, CETEARYL ALCOHOL, MYRSTYLMYRSTRATE, DIETHYLHEXYL BUTAMIDO TRIAZONE, ETHYLHEXYL METHOXYCINNAMATE, ETHYLHEXYL TRIAZONE, GLYCERIN, TOCOPHERYL ACETATE, XANTHAN GUM, SODIUM CETEARYL SULFATE, ALKYL ACRYLATES CROSSPOLYMER, TRIMETHOXYCAPRYLYSILANE, TRISODIUM EDTA, METHYLPARABEN, PHENOXYETHANOL, BHT

SPF 30: art.nr: 85684

WATER (AQUA),ETHYLHEXYL METHOXYCINNAMATE, ALCOHOLDENAT, ALCYL BENZOATE, OCTYLDODECANOL, BUTYL METHOXYDIBENZOYLMETHANE, DISTARCH PHOSPHATE, METHYLENE BISBIS-ETHYLHEXYLOXYPHENOL METHOXYPHENYL TRIAZINE, SODIUM
PHENYLBENZIMIDAZOLE SULFONATE, CETEARYL ALCOHOL, MYRSTYLMYRSTRATE, SODIUM STARCH OCTENYLSUCCINATE, CETYL ALCOHOL,
ETHYLHEXYL TRIAZONE, TITANIUM DIOXIDE, BENZOTRIAZOLYLTETRAMETHYLBUTYLPHENOL, GLYCEIN , TOCOPHERYL ACETATE, GLYCERYL STEARATE, XANTHAN GUM, PEG-40 CASTOR OIL, SODIUM CETEARYL SULFATE, ALKYL ACRYLATES CROSSPOLYMER, TRIMETHOXYCAPRYLYSILANE, TRISODIUM EDTA, METHYLPARABEN, PHENOXYETHANOL, BHT


I'll post the graphs for these sunscreens under Sunscreen Profiles.

Eva, I've been trying to locate the Nivea sunscreen you have recommended, "Nivea Light Feeling Sensation SPF50-UVA20". When searching ChemistDirect for this product the closest I get is "Nivea Sun Light Feeling Sun Lotion SPF50". The ingredient list is not provided and the UVA amount is not stated. Is this the same product you are referring to although not the exact name, perhaps a name change?
http://www.chemistdi...50_1_11779.html
I was particularly interested in the Nivea you refer to since you have stated that it provides a "semi-matte finish that looks better than with make-up".

Anyone else ordered the Nivea that Eva recommends and shipped to USA? I am particularly interested in a place to order from that list the ingredients.

Barbara


Edited by Eva Victoria, 29 June 2008 - 04:48 PM.

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#17 Benae

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Posted 29 June 2008 - 09:17 PM

Eva, thanks....... and for all the hard work you do for keeping us informed on sunscreens. Hope it's not too late for me. Guess I've OD'd on UVA in past years without even knowing. My daughter is 39 and she still prefers to tan (tanning bed). She does keep the kids protected with sunscreen and has started using the products that I have provided based on the information I get here on these forums. I was using the Neutrogena Ultra Sheer Dry Touch w/helloplex and for the kids I got the Neutrogena Ultra Sheer Body Mist SPF 70 w/helloplex. Wow, they go through the sunscreen quick. Guess you waste a lot with the spray. Now I need to order the better filters from outside the US. I was going to order the La Roche Posay Antihelios XL Fluide Extreme but now think I'll go with the Nivea. Glad you were able to confirm that product for me.

Barbara
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#18 Ben

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Posted 30 June 2008 - 01:44 AM

Believe me, you want to keep a young mother away from the tanning bed.
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#19 Eva Victoria

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Posted 30 June 2008 - 03:29 PM

Eva, thanks....... and for all the hard work you do for keeping us informed on sunscreens. Hope it's not too late for me. Guess I've OD'd on UVA in past years without even knowing. My daughter is 39 and she still prefers to tan (tanning bed). She does keep the kids protected with sunscreen and has started using the products that I have provided based on the information I get here on these forums. I was using the Neutrogena Ultra Sheer Dry Touch w/helloplex and for the kids I got the Neutrogena Ultra Sheer Body Mist SPF 70 w/helloplex. Wow, they go through the sunscreen quick. Guess you waste a lot with the spray. Now I need to order the better filters from outside the US. I was going to order the La Roche Posay Antihelios XL Fluide Extreme but now think I'll go with the Nivea. Glad you were able to confirm that product for me.

Barbara


LA Roche Posay is good! I personally prefer Nivea. My children grew up on the Mexoryl filters but from this year they use Nivea (enriched with extra TiO2+ZnO, can't help it:)

Tanningbeds should be prohibited esp. in those eparts of the world that have a lot of sun already!
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#20 Hoon

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Posted 24 August 2008 - 12:16 PM

I was wondering if there had been any changes in either yours or Fredrik's skincare routines, and it seems that someone has already asked Fredrik for an update! Therefore post this in the hopes of hearing about any changes. (Are you using all of the same serums - azelaic, glycolic, olive-leaf, vitamin C, etc.?)

Thanks in advance!
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#21 Eva Victoria

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Posted 24 August 2008 - 12:43 PM

I was wondering if there had been any changes in either yours or Fredrik's skincare routines, and it seems that someone has already asked Fredrik for an update! Therefore post this in the hopes of hearing about any changes. (Are you using all of the same serums - azelaic, glycolic, olive-leaf, vitamin C, etc.?)

Thanks in advance!


Gosh, no! :)
I went back to keep it simple!
For 6 weeks I have been using a medicated face wash AM, a serum with phytic acid (Obagi). And a 10% concentration Vit.C serum from La Roche Posay: Biomedic line. Sunscreen (either my own SPF 50+ or Avene Spf 50+ extra ZnO and TinosorbM added.).
In the evening: La Roche Posay Lipicar Syndet face wash first then MDFormulation Facial wash (12%GA). Tretinoin (0.05%; 2 inch) mixed with 10% Azaleic Acid (0,5 inch). And that's it :~

It is an as much of an experiment as curiosity.
This regiment is good for both acne prone skin and photo-aged skin.
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#22 JLL

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Posted 22 September 2008 - 07:29 PM

What do you think about bromelain? I know there's a rumor that papaya pickers have no fingerprints because of the bromelain, and it definitely stings when you put pineapple on your skin. Does it peel the skin in the same way as retin-A?
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#23 Eva Victoria

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Posted 23 September 2008 - 04:39 PM

What do you think about bromelain? I know there's a rumor that papaya pickers have no fingerprints because of the bromelain, and it definitely stings when you put pineapple on your skin. Does it peel the skin in the same way as retin-A?


Bromelain as far as I know is an anti-inflammatory substance (among many other things) and is derived from the stem of the pineapple plant. (Please view attachments).

If you mean Bromelain as an exfoliator:

Retin-A/ Tretinoin is found naturally in human skin and has an exfoliating effect on the Epidermis. But it is much more than that! Tretinoin reconstructs the skin to the state of a younger skin! The Epidermis gets thinner and the Dermis gets thicker like young skin. It'll react also quicker to different substances hence the skin's occasional irritation / redness.

Conventional exoliators like AHAs (acids from fruits, sugarcane etc) will mostly have effect on the Epidermis and a bit on collagen production in the Dermis (Glycolic Acid).

Tretinoin will build your collagen fibers and restore damaged elastin fibers in the Dermis. But also reverses UVA damage on the cellular level (UVA destroys existing collagen and elastin fibers in the skin and shots down the receptors that signalize the skin to produce more collagen! So not only damages existing collagen fibers but also stops the reproduction and the reparation of the damaged ones! Tretinoin will reverse this mechanism and "open" the receptors so the skin will to be able produce new fresh collagen fibers. Collagen is the supporting fiber of the skin. It is like the spring in a madras. Without it your skin will collapse, loose its volume, get this hollow look, sagging, and wrinkles will be more prominent. Basically a typical photo-aged appearance.)
To avoid this it is not enough however to use Retin-A on your skin every evening and hope that it'll never happen to you!
It is a necessity to practice Sun-avoidance at all possible times, cover up and use a well formulated high protection sunscreen (preferably one that contains TinosobS, Tinosorb M, + min. 1 more UVB filter (TiO2, OMC, OCR) and either AVO or ZnO) with an SPF50+ and UVA>=20.

I would also recommend Vitamin C as a serum under your sunscreen which should be fresh and contain Vitamin E in nano-capsules for greater delivery and anti-oxidant efficacy (I do not know who produces such product commercially though. Nano-capsules are a very new technology and the raw-material is now available for formulation).

I would also highly recommend using Retin-A alone on clean skin during the evening without any moisturizer (it'll weaken its effect). Rather use it an enhancer that will allow even deeper penetration: Azaleic Acid, Glycolic Acid or Hydroquinone is a few.

Attached Files


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#24 JLL

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Posted 23 September 2008 - 04:48 PM

Thank you for your answer.

I've followed your and Fredrik's posts on the subject and have concluded that sunscreen is necessary to protect the skin. I live in Finland, though, and it's almost winter, so I've decided to give it a rest until spring. Maybe this will result in some damage nevertheless, but I think it's going to be minimal.

The trouble with retin-A is that it's a prescription drug here.
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#25 VictorBjoerk

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Posted 23 September 2008 - 05:07 PM

Eva: sorry if this question has already been posted but do you work as a dermatologist?
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#26 mustardseed41

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Posted 24 September 2008 - 01:38 AM

Eva. I've read before that you suggest waiting 1-2 hours after applying retin-a before using a moisturizer? Is this as good a strategy as the one you just mentioned? Also, I have a bottle of New Feeling by Life Enhancement and was wondering what your thoughts are of using this or Living Skin after applying retin-a?

http://www.life-enha...ate.asp?ID=1295
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#27 mustardseed41

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Posted 24 September 2008 - 03:30 AM

I just got through applying the New Feeling right after using retin-a. Powerful combo. Lite flushing, tingling, and redness. Feels good.
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#28 Eva Victoria

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Posted 24 September 2008 - 04:57 PM

Thank you for your answer.

I've followed your and Fredrik's posts on the subject and have concluded that sunscreen is necessary to protect the skin. I live in Finland, though, and it's almost winter, so I've decided to give it a rest until spring. Maybe this will result in some damage nevertheless, but I think it's going to be minimal.

The trouble with retin-A is that it's a prescription drug here.


Retin-A/Tretinoin is a prescription drug everywhere ;) Don't buy it on the Internet though! There are many fakes out there. You can go to a doctor and get it from him/her! It'll also cost you much less (NOK64/EU8/30g so it must be around the same in Finland as well).
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#29 Eva Victoria

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Posted 24 September 2008 - 05:00 PM

Eva: sorry if this question has already been posted but do you work as a dermatologist?


I am not a fully certified dermatologist yet. Though working on it!
I am a biochemist and work as a formulator for most of my time (specialized in sunscreens and UVA filters). I also give advice to people about skin-care/protection/rejuvenation at my private practice.
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#30 Eva Victoria

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Posted 24 September 2008 - 05:08 PM

Eva. I've read before that you suggest waiting 1-2 hours after applying retin-a before using a moisturizer? Is this as good a strategy as the one you just mentioned? Also, I have a bottle of New Feeling by Life Enhancement and was wondering what your thoughts are of using this or Living Skin after applying retin-a?

http://www.life-enha...ate.asp?ID=1295


I will have to see the ingredients of the product to be able to answer your question. But everything I have learnt about active ingredients like Tretinoin it is better to use them without any additional moisturizer so they won't get diluted hence their effect minimized.
Otherwise moisturizers not only will weaken its strength but also make the skin to thicken the Epidermis which will also make penetration of the active ingredient (like Tretinoin) more difficult. It can also increase the risk of further irritation.

So I would not use any moisturizer after Retin-A. In stead would follow the newer recommendations from Dermatologists and use 1 inch(2,5cm) of the product on cleansed and dry skin in the evening. Massage it in till it is completely dissapeared in the skin.
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