• Log in with Facebook Log in with Twitter Log In with Google      Sign In    
  • Create Account
  LongeCity
              Advocacy & Research for Unlimited Lifespans

Photo
* * * * * 4 votes

Equipment: mixing, centrifuging and filtering

mixer centrifuge filter

  • Please log in to reply
371 replies to this topic

#271 hav

  • Guest
  • 1,089 posts
  • 219
  • Location:Cape Cod, MA
  • NO

Posted 27 August 2013 - 07:19 PM

Here's a filter compatibility chart: http://media.sterlit...mpatibility.pdf

I use the .22 um PES ones made by Autofil which is fine enough to remove bacteria. Not sure a syringe filter that fine would be practical with something as thick as olive oil because it would pull so slowly. I think that's about the largest pore size that will catch bacteria.

Howard
  • like x 1

#272 niner

  • Guest
  • 16,276 posts
  • 1,999
  • Location:Philadelphia

Posted 27 August 2013 - 08:17 PM

If there are bacteria in c60-oo, then there are probably bacteria in olive oil, I'd think. I consume a lot of olive oil, and I guarantee you that I'm not filtering it down to 220 nanometers. I eat bacteria on purpose, in the form of probiotics and live culture foods. So... I'm not sure why I'd want to sterilize c60-oo unless I was going to do an IP injection or something.
  • like x 1

Click HERE to rent this advertising spot for C60 HEALTH to support Longecity (this will replace the google ad above).

#273 Adaptogen

  • Guest
  • 772 posts
  • 239
  • Location:United States

Posted 28 August 2013 - 04:07 AM

My c60-oo has sat for around three months and been shaken fairly often. I ground it pretty thoroughly with a mortar and pestle (so i thought), yet still, there is a fairly large amount of residual c60 in my bottle. It visibly gets stuck to the glass when i shake it.

I have still started dosing, despite this. Letting it settle after shaking, I can pour off my brownish colored oo with minimal specks. I guess the rest of it is just accumulating in the bottom of the bottle. Is there anything I can/should do to get the remaining c60 to dissolve? Would the attic in 90 degree heat be a bad idea?

#274 mpe

  • Guest, F@H
  • 275 posts
  • 182
  • Location:Australia

Posted 28 August 2013 - 07:50 AM

Before getting my heated magnetic stirrer, I made my first batch the same way you have with much the same results as you. The answer for me was to heat the bottles of c60 oo on my kitchen stove.

I filled a sourcepan with water and heated it so the water was simmering but not boiling and put the bottles of C60 into the water and left it there for about 4 hours.

All particles had dissolved and the colour had changed from brown to whiskey, the final colour seems to be dependent on the colour of the original oil, so dont be too concerned about it.

Once I purchased my magnetic stirrer, I found that what had taken months now only takes a week. I have since made three batches 2 heated 1 non heated. I purchased a 3.5 inch stirrer bar which allowed a much lower machine speed, i really recommend it.

If you are going to make your own and dont want to wait months for the final product, spend the money and buy a stirrer on EBAY, you wont regret it.

Last but not least, have you maybe put too much C60 in your olive oil ? You only need .65 of a gram per litre of olive oil.
If so, add more oil to your mix, it will dilute the mix somewhat but that wont hurt the final product and you wont be losing C60 to the bottom of the bottle.

Mike



#275 pleb

  • Guest
  • 462 posts
  • 47
  • Location:England

Posted 28 August 2013 - 10:10 AM

I would agree with Mike i use .4 gram in half a litre, crushed before adding to the oil,( i don't have a stirrer ) and have no problem it turns purple within about 12 hours and red within 4 days,in a cupboard in the kitchen at normal room temperature,with just and occasional shake each day,

try diluting it further with 50% more oil in a larger glass bottle,,

John

Edited by pleb, 28 August 2013 - 10:13 AM.


#276 Adaptogen

  • Guest
  • 772 posts
  • 239
  • Location:United States

Posted 28 August 2013 - 03:10 PM

Thanks for the tips. I used 500mg for 750 ml, so it should have been enough oil. I guess I just didn't crush it well enough for the larger pieces of c60 to dissolve.
I may have to try your stove top heating method.

#277 hav

  • Guest
  • 1,089 posts
  • 219
  • Location:Cape Cod, MA
  • NO

Posted 28 August 2013 - 09:57 PM

I would advise against using heat mainly because its been shown that different c60 adducts form at different temperature ranges and Baati only tells us the effects of the ones that form at room temperature. As I recall, there was a breakpoint just above human body temperature so if you do use a magnetic stirrer with a heater element, I wouldn't recommend setting the temperature any higher than that.

Howard

Edited by hav, 28 August 2013 - 10:42 PM.


#278 hav

  • Guest
  • 1,089 posts
  • 219
  • Location:Cape Cod, MA
  • NO

Posted 28 August 2013 - 10:41 PM

If there are bacteria in c60-oo, then there are probably bacteria in olive oil, I'd think. I consume a lot of olive oil, and I guarantee you that I'm not filtering it down to 220 nanometers. I eat bacteria on purpose, in the form of probiotics and live culture foods. So... I'm not sure why I'd want to sterilize c60-oo unless I was going to do an IP injection or something.


My own thinking is geared more towards the shelf life of the mix. I know the oil is low in pufa and with the added antioxidant effect of c60 it should last quite a while. But I worry that bacteria might work against it. I also know Baati's materials lasted at least 4 years on their shelf after similar filtering. Right now I have 2 liters on a dark basement shelf that are a year old and at my probable rate of usage, will likely last me around another year. May not be as much an issue if you make smaller batches and consume them more quickly.

Howard

#279 niner

  • Guest
  • 16,276 posts
  • 1,999
  • Location:Philadelphia

Posted 29 August 2013 - 03:13 AM

My own thinking is geared more towards the shelf life of the mix. I know the oil is low in pufa and with the added antioxidant effect of c60 it should last quite a while. But I worry that bacteria might work against it. I also know Baati's materials lasted at least 4 years on their shelf after similar filtering. Right now I have 2 liters on a dark basement shelf that are a year old and at my probable rate of usage, will likely last me around another year. May not be as much an issue if you make smaller batches and consume them more quickly.


I've been more and more concerned about shelf life. Initially, I was thinking the same thing you were, that a low-pufa oil that's full of antioxidant shouldn't have shelf life problems. However, a few things have come up since then. Someone mentioned epoxide formation that was said to happen pretty easily when c60 meets O2. That would represent a way that it could act as an antioxidant in a high oxygen tension environment (i.e. outside the body), but it would be an antioxidant mode that would change the molecule, unlike the catalytic mode that we think is predominant in vivo. Another concern is that at some point I felt like I needed a bigger dose. Back when I was using ~15mg once a month, I stopped dosing for a little too long while I was sorting out a GI issue. Some of the effects faded, including one that I really liked- I had finally gotten rid of my very long standing eczema after being on c60 for a few months, and during this break, it returned. Despite the higher dose I'm now using (~30mg/mo), I have a couple small but recalcitrant spots that aren't clearing up. My final issue is the appearance of my c60-oo. It used to have that nice magenta/purplish color, and now it looks more brown. IMHO, that can't be good.

I could make a new (smaller) batch, perhaps paying more attention to O2 and photons. I could buy some commercial stuff just to see if I see something major happen with it. It's cheaper than it used to be, so that makes an easy experiment.

All the other good effects are still there, it's just this one eczema thing that isn't working for me at the moment.
  • like x 1

#280 mait

  • Guest
  • 256 posts
  • 64
  • Location:Northern Europe

Posted 29 August 2013 - 10:27 AM

I fill one 250mg jar with olive oil leaving 0,5cm for air and then close the jar air tight. Then I use magnetic stirrer for a week while the jar is kept in dark place. This has worked for me in 2 tries. I used centrifuge before but I have managed to burn down my secondhand unit so I am now thinking of using the syringe filter to do the job.

Niner, what do You think of adding BHT to the C60 in EVOO solution to hold off the oxidation and to keep the solution effective longer time.
As a coincidence I have diagnosed chronic atopic dermatitis and my skin has been never before better than now, while using C60.

Edited by mait, 29 August 2013 - 10:30 AM.


#281 mait

  • Guest
  • 256 posts
  • 64
  • Location:Northern Europe

Posted 21 September 2013 - 03:43 PM

Hello

I have a question. I am making my first batch of C60 in completely air-tight bottle and I have left very little unfilled area in the bottle. Now after 48h of stirring I see that dissolvement rate of C60 is quite a bit slower than usual. Should I open the bottle and let it "breathe" once over a 2 to 3 days or is it OK as it is by now. I am using 370ml of EVOO and 100mg of C60 in current mix.

NB! The previous jars weren't as air tight as I thought.

Edited by mait, 21 September 2013 - 03:44 PM.


#282 niner

  • Guest
  • 16,276 posts
  • 1,999
  • Location:Philadelphia

Posted 21 September 2013 - 07:31 PM

I have a question. I am making my first batch of C60 in completely air-tight bottle and I have left very little unfilled area in the bottle. Now after 48h of stirring I see that dissolvement rate of C60 is quite a bit slower than usual. Should I open the bottle and let it "breathe" once over a 2 to 3 days or is it OK as it is by now. I am using 370ml of EVOO and 100mg of C60 in current mix.


If you're getting dissolution, I'd be inclined to wait on it. There are a couple ways to get it to dissolve faster. (although it's too late for either of them as far as this particular batch goes). The first is to grind the c60 to a very fine powder before you mix it. All you really need to do is crush the crystals, since they are very soft. The other way is to use a lower purity c60, since the C70 impurity causes the crystal lattice to be weaker, since C70 is ovoid, but c60 is a sphere. A weaker lattice = faster dissolution. Personally, I like to use the highest purity I can get, so I use method 1.

I'm developing a concern that c60-oo is somewhat air-sensitive, and think it would be safer to store it with as little oxygen as is practical. I'd REALLY like to see some serious lab work done to characterize exactly what chemical species are in c60-oo, and to really nail down their sensitivity to heat, light, and O2.
  • like x 1

#283 cuprous

  • Guest
  • 170 posts
  • 18
  • Location:Boston

Posted 21 September 2013 - 07:41 PM

C60 in completely air-tight bottle and I have left very little unfilled area in the bottle. Now after 48h of stirring I see that dissolvement rate of C60 is quite a bit slower than usual. Should I open the bottle and let it "breathe"



I don't think you need to let it "breathe" but if you're using a magnetic stirrer I would assume there needs to be some air in order to create the whirlpool effect that moves the liquid around. Otherwise you may be getting a fraction of the liquid movement. Just conjecture.
  • like x 1
  • dislike x 1

#284 Turnbuckle

  • Location:USA
  • NO

Posted 21 September 2013 - 08:02 PM

Someone mentioned epoxide formation that was said to happen pretty easily when c60 meets O2.



You might find this paper interesting--Chemistry of Fullerene Epoxides: Synthesis, Structure, and
Nucleophilic Substitution-Addition Reactivity

As for oxidation, that seem to occur far more rapidly in the presence of metal catalysts, especially transition metals. So perhaps using pure oleic acid would produce a more stable product than olive oil off the shelf. Or, if adducts are not actually necessary, something like squalane.

See: Metal Determinations in Olive Oil

Edited by Turnbuckle, 21 September 2013 - 08:04 PM.


#285 niner

  • Guest
  • 16,276 posts
  • 1,999
  • Location:Philadelphia

Posted 22 September 2013 - 01:24 AM

I found a pretty good paper by Werner et al. from 1994 that details the sensitivity of dry C60 crystals and thin films to O2. They find C60 to be sensitive to O2 under all conditions. They find the most stable storage form to be solutions in the absence of light. It's unusual for the solution form to be more stable than the solid, as chemical substances go. I wouldn't have guessed that. They also find that large crystals are quite stable, but that fine powders or thin films are particularly bad. When they talk about "solutions", that would typically be in a solvent like toluene. Exactly how olive oil would act is an open question. One thing that occurs to me, considering this, is that it may be better to put the large crystals directly into the oil rather than grinding them first. This means that magnetic stirring is probably essential. If possible, it would probably be beneficial to degas or sparge the oil before mixing, and it should probably be in a sealed flask with no air space, or with an inert gas instead of air. Light should be avoided.

Does this mean that everything we've done is wrong? Well, speaking for myself, "mistakes were made", yet my first batch seemed to work fine. For a while, anyway. (It's now about 10 months old.) I've had a sense for a while now that it's not working quite as well as it used to, and I think my cavalier attitude toward storage conditions may have a lot to do with that. I'm officially putting "make new batch" on my list of things to do.
  • like x 2

#286 trance

  • Guest
  • 335 posts
  • 112
  • Location:Dallas, Tx

Posted 22 September 2013 - 05:51 AM

What if oxygen is required for the initial formation of the adduct we're seeking? Has it ever actually been identified yet?

#287 niner

  • Guest
  • 16,276 posts
  • 1,999
  • Location:Philadelphia

Posted 22 September 2013 - 02:41 PM

What if oxygen is required for the initial formation of the adduct we're seeking? Has it ever actually been identified yet?


That's not inconceivable. C60 epoxides react in a different way than pristine c60, however, I think that the kind of reactions that work in that case aren't consistent with the structure of olive oil. But it's a good point, because we don't have a good characterization of the exact structure of the adduct.

#288 free10

  • Guest
  • 152 posts
  • 15
  • Location:US

Posted 23 September 2013 - 01:22 PM

Originally used the fresh batch of McEvoy's Ranch olive oil, and vac dried C60 from SES in the first part of Feb, without crushing to make the first batch. I dumped most of the 1 gram of C60 into the 750 ml of oil and shook it daily putting the original container of oil back in the card board box it came in every time. It took some weeks to turn whiskey brown. I tried heating and freezing it and nothing changed the color. I poured some of it into a small pint or half pint Ball jar with the screw on sealed lid. I left the main bottle in the container it came in, and shook it every week or so. The Ball jar I shook almost daily and got my "dose" out of it say once or more a week until now. It had finally got low and had about half and inch or so of oil left in it and never really change from the brown color, so I thought I would dump that out and then put more in for the big bottle in the cardboard all that time. Two things I noticed. One was there was like a rust colored substance on the bottle of the glass jar in a pile at the bottom. Well got that more or less cleaned out and got the big bottle out and to my wonder it was blood red. This happened I would say sometime between the 6th to eighth month, but the same oil in the small glass jar never did. No stirring or filtering done. Now we have a puzzle.

#289 Turnbuckle

  • Location:USA
  • NO

Posted 23 September 2013 - 02:37 PM

I dumped most of the 1 gram of C60 into the 750 ml of oil and shook it daily putting the original container of oil back in the card board box it came in every time.


The saturation limit seems to be less than 1g/L, and probably closer to .8g/L, so you might want to cut back on it next time.

Well got that more or less cleaned out and got the big bottle out and to my wonder it was blood red.


Are you Catholic? Because you may have a miracle on your hands.
  • like x 2

#290 free10

  • Guest
  • 152 posts
  • 15
  • Location:US

Posted 23 September 2013 - 05:28 PM

I dumped most of the 1 gram of C60 into the 750 ml of oil and shook it daily putting the original container of oil back in the card board box it came in every time.


The saturation limit seems to be less than 1g/L, and probably closer to .8g/L, so you might want to cut back on it next time.

Well got that more or less cleaned out and got the big bottle out and to my wonder it was blood red.


Are you Catholic? Because you may have a miracle on your hands.


I found out later it was probably too much per liter but I was in a hurry to get it mixed and ready and start taking it. I figured any extra would just fall out and not cause any harm. I am about to order more from SES and will grind/crush it up real good and use a little less this time per liter. I will just have to wait for the next batch of oil in November to mix it up and then probably freeze it, as I have a lot of the original 750ml left.

I wonder if some miracle happened when I saw the big bottle mostly in the dark turned a dark red, while that I took out never did. Makes me feel like one of the yes I did it crowd LOL

Even the brown though had some very positive effects fairly fast.

#291 tintinet

  • Guest
  • 1,972 posts
  • 503
  • Location:ME

Posted 28 September 2013 - 10:46 PM

I dumped most of the 1 gram of C60 into the 750 ml of oil and shook it daily putting the original container of oil back in the card board box it came in every time.


The saturation limit seems to be less than 1g/L, and probably closer to .8g/L, so you might want to cut back on it next time.

Well got that more or less cleaned out and got the big bottle out and to my wonder it was blood red.


Are you Catholic? Because you may have a miracle on your hands.


I found out later it was probably too much per liter but I was in a hurry to get it mixed and ready and start taking it. I figured any extra would just fall out and not cause any harm. I am about to order more from SES and will grind/crush it up real good and use a little less this time per liter. I will just have to wait for the next batch of oil in November to mix it up and then probably freeze it, as I have a lot of the original 750ml left.

I wonder if some miracle happened when I saw the big bottle mostly in the dark turned a dark red, while that I took out never did. Makes me feel like one of the yes I did it crowd LOL

Even the brown though had some very positive effects fairly fast.


What very positive effects?

#292 free10

  • Guest
  • 152 posts
  • 15
  • Location:US

Posted 29 September 2013 - 01:52 AM

I dumped most of the 1 gram of C60 into the 750 ml of oil and shook it daily putting the original container of oil back in the card board box it came in every time.


The saturation limit seems to be less than 1g/L, and probably closer to .8g/L, so you might want to cut back on it next time.

Well got that more or less cleaned out and got the big bottle out and to my wonder it was blood red.


Are you Catholic? Because you may have a miracle on your hands.


I found out later it was probably too much per liter but I was in a hurry to get it mixed and ready and start taking it. I figured any extra would just fall out and not cause any harm. I am about to order more from SES and will grind/crush it up real good and use a little less this time per liter. I will just have to wait for the next batch of oil in November to mix it up and then probably freeze it, as I have a lot of the original 750ml left.

I wonder if some miracle happened when I saw the big bottle mostly in the dark turned a dark red, while that I took out never did. Makes me feel like one of the yes I did it crowd LOL

Even the brown though had some very positive effects fairly fast.


What very positive effects?


OK, I am 65 and have copd plus almost life long Ankylosing Spondylitis (AS). The VA has me rated at 160% disabled (100 on one plus 60 on the other), and little over a year ago I spent 6 weeks in a VA hospital regaining my balance and ability to stand and walk, which I did. Cause unknown. To say I am not in great shape is not hard to fathom.

On the first day of trying either a quarter or half a teaspoon, I didn't notice much, until that night when I went to the grocery store. As I walked through the parking lot and about to enter the store, I noticed the walk didn't drain my energy or my air, so I decided to push it once inside and low and behold I could walk fast with large strides all over that large store without air problems or losing power. I got home and brought the groceries in easily and still no draining of energy. I put them up and cooked super and still felt great until a few hours later when I went to bed. The next morning the effect seemed to have faded.

A few days later, without anymore, I accidentally burned my hand with a propane torch flame, then the next day the same problem but burning the other hand as it was cold outside and trying to solder up a copper water pipe, and both days the torch toppled, and I tried to catch it before it could set the dry grass and foam insulation on fire. Both burns should have been really major and both were very painful for about 4 hours afterwards, but neither hurt the next day, and no blistering and barely red at the most. About a week to 10 days later, I noticed the skin was rough and felt like plastic and cracking where the burns happened and peeled right up to reveal what looked like new skin underneath. Other than the initial pain I felt no soreness nor nerve ending damage. This was all from one dose of brown colored mix about 30 days old, and just shaken every day for a minute or less and the C60 was not crushed first.

I started feeling stronger over time and as it got warm more active trying to work outside, and about mid summer after maybe 5 or 6 months of taking it I found myself outside weed eating my front yard only in a tshirt and noticed I was out there over 2 hours, in the New Mexico noon day sun without burning any. In fact, it almost looked like I got a light fast tan.

Mentally I don't have the fogged over effect anymore and my recent blood work was all great, except for my PSA, which was up. This was all from the non red mixture. Now, about 7 months later it is a rose colored red. I like that better since it is prettier, but it doesn't seem to act any different on me. Overall the effect seems to be positive and building over time slowly.
  • like x 7

#293 stephen_b

  • Guest
  • 1,735 posts
  • 231

Posted 03 October 2013 - 07:30 PM

That's a really great report, free10. Thanks for posting.
  • like x 1

#294 mikela

  • Guest
  • 109 posts
  • 42
  • Location:SoCal

Posted 04 October 2013 - 03:40 PM

free10,

How often and what dosing are you using?

Mike

#295 free10

  • Guest
  • 152 posts
  • 15
  • Location:US

Posted 05 October 2013 - 07:52 PM

free10,

How often and what dosing are you using?

Mike


The first dose was either 1/4 or 1/2 of a teaspoon and probably 1/4 with the weird result of seeming to have virtually endless energy that night and no oxygen problems for hours, but that was gone when I woke. Without anymore and a day or two later was when I burned my hands quickly, from the flame from a propane torch. It was 5 to 7 days from the first dose till I tried another one about the same amount. I tried over the months, just 5 or 7 drops a day, or 1/4 teasp or larger amounts up to a full teaspoon every so many days, in between. So figuring only .7mg per ml I have taken anywhere for 4.93mg at once all the way down, at one time. Lately closer to 2.5mg every so many days. I seem to be getting healthier and stronger slowly but surely over time, so I am in no time rush to go faster on the improvements. More might be better but maybe not.

My weight varies between 155 and 160 or so.

Edited by free10, 05 October 2013 - 07:54 PM.

  • like x 1

#296 SearchingForAnswers

  • Member
  • 213 posts
  • 36
  • Location:KY
  • NO

Posted 15 July 2014 - 07:25 PM

Can somebody tell me if these filters are appropriate?

 

Most of the links I've found in previous entries are all dead / 401 errors:

 

http://www.sterlitec...r-ny029025.html

 

I can't seem to find any appropriate 90mm filters on Amazon...



#297 niner

  • Guest
  • 16,276 posts
  • 1,999
  • Location:Philadelphia

Posted 16 July 2014 - 01:17 AM

Can somebody tell me if these filters are appropriate?
 
Most of the links I've found in previous entries are all dead / 401 errors:
 
http://www.sterlitec...r-ny029025.html
 
I can't seem to find any appropriate 90mm filters on Amazon...


Those should work. Do you have some way of pulling a vacuum on your filter? I used a hand vacuum pump, which seemed to be sufficient.

#298 SearchingForAnswers

  • Member
  • 213 posts
  • 36
  • Location:KY
  • NO

Posted 18 July 2014 - 02:49 PM

Thanks, yes I have the hand vacuum & glassware from Amazon. The hand pump does seem flimsy, but I guess you get what you pay for!



#299 SearchingForAnswers

  • Member
  • 213 posts
  • 36
  • Location:KY
  • NO

Posted 24 July 2014 - 09:24 PM

My first home made batch!

It's a very very deep red. Sorry about the sideways photos, they weren't that way when I chose them!

Attached Files


Edited by SearchingForAnswers, 24 July 2014 - 09:25 PM.


#300 ClarkSims

  • Life Member
  • 232 posts
  • 36
  • Location:USA

Posted 25 July 2014 - 11:15 PM

I just wore out my electric stirrer after one year. I probably got 500 hours of use out of it. I bought my last stirrer from Mansion Schools.

 

Does anyone have a suggestion where I could buy a good stirrer?

 

Thanks







Also tagged with one or more of these keywords: mixer, centrifuge, filter

0 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users