All chemical sunscreens have to be reapplied every 2h. They are also being decomposed by sunlight.
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The best sunscreens available today are either the ones that contain Mexotyl SX+XL (owned by L' Oreal group, sold in the EU!) or the ones that contain Tinosorb M+S (Roc, Avene, Nivea, Bioderma; sold in the EU).
My defenetelly favourite ones are:
Bioderma: Photoderm Max SPF 50+ UVA 35
La Roche Posay Antihelios: SPF 50+ UVA 28
Nivea Light Sensation suncreme: SPF 30 UVA 18
All of these have full UVA protection, photostable formulas and excellent light non-greasy consistence!
Remember an SPF/UVA 18 has 94,7% filtering of the rays! 30: 96% and 60 (marked 50+) is 98,36%.
I don't see the point in worrying if a chemical sunscreen is photostable if it has to be reapplied every 2 hours to be effective even if it is photostable. Who is going to do that unless he/she is at the beach? It doesn't really fit into a regular lifestyle. This makes me think physical sunscreens are better since they can be applied in the morning and last all day, if I understand correctly.
How often do I need to re-apply sunscreen?
According to
the AAD, "Sunscreens should be re-applied every 2 hours or after swimming or perspiring heavily." According to Dr. Patty Agin, a sunscreen scientist at Coppertone, "The AAD recommendations are related to sunscreen use and re-application
in the sun. During sun exposure, it is always wise to re-apply to ensure protection and coverage,
especially after swimming, sweating or engaging in vigorous exercise." (emphasis mine) I contacted Dr. Agin because she conducted research that found that "chemical"/organic sunscreens retain their efficacy on human skin for several hours, in some cases up to 8 hours. I'm not aware of any evidence that supports the need for re-application of a photostable sunscreen every 2 hours during "daily use" conditions in humans (i.e. not sweating or swimming or otherwise removing the sunscreen), except possibly in the case of oily skin. In the absence of such evidence, I believe each individual must make her own risk-benefit analysis, based on the available evidence. Please read
this post for more information on the substantivity of sunscreens, so that you can determine how often is appropriate for you to re-apply. As an example, I would not expect a sunscreen applied at 7 am to necessarily provide full protection at 2 pm. However, if I were out in the sun and physically active, I would re-apply at least every 2 hours, if not more often.
What is the difference between physical and "chemical" UV filters? Which is better?
"Chemical" UV filters, more appropriately called organic (carbon-containing) filters, work by absorbing UV photons and "converting" them into heat. Physical UV filters, also called inorganic filters (zinc oxide/ZnO and titanium dioxide/TiO2), function by absorbing, scattering, and reflecting UV. While some of the most UVA-protective US sunscreens use physical filters, organic filters such as the Tinosorb and Mexoryl filters can provide superior UVA protection to sunscreens that rely on physical filters alone for UVA protection. More info
here. The advantage of physical filters is their low irritancy and high safety profile, though uncoated physical filters, particulary TiO2, may photocatalyze free radical formation.
15 Therefore, it is best to use coated physical filters such as Z-Cote HP1 or manganese-doped TiO2
14 (known as Optisol
16).
For everyday incidental exposure, you do not usually have to reapply every 2 hours. In fact, women who wear makeup would find this an impossible feat.! However, you must understand that your sunscreen WILL become less effective as time goes by., although it is not necessarily as grim as some would like to think. In one study, researchers tested the amount of sunscreen left on subjects' fingers after several hours. One sunscreen had 80% remaining after 4 hours, while the worst-performing sunscreen still had 78% remaining after 5 hours. So, a significant amount of the sunscreens were still there in both cases.
In another study, it was found that a water resistant sunscreen retained its SPF for 6 hours after application to the lower back. The worst case scenario was a non-waterproof sunscreen, which had an original tested SPF of 16.7 +/- 1.2 and, after 8 hours, was found to have an spf of 12.7 +/- 3.1. This is a loss of only SPF 4. So, while there is clearly a loss in sunscreen efficacy after several hous, I personally feel it is safe to say that most of your sunscreen will still be on your face for several hours after you apply it. But again, this is another reason why it is important to choose the highest possible protection to begin with.
If you wear make-up, here's something to think about.
Do NOT apply makeup that contains physical sunscreen (TIO2 or ZIO2) as an active ingredient as these will inactive the Avobenzone in your European sunscreen.