10 replies to this topic

[Eva Victoria]

Hi there!

I would like very much to hear what kind of sunscreens you prefer using on your face.
What are you looking for in a sunscreen when it comes to consistency, whiteness, SPF and PPD/SPA value; sunscreen filters etc.

I would appreciate your answers very much!
It would help me create a sunscreen that would be the most pleasant to use.

Thank you for your kind help!

Best wishes to all of you,

Eva Victoria

Edited by Eva Victoria, 16 April 2008 - 06:48 PM.

[niner]

What are you looking for in a sunscreen when it comes to consistency, whiteness, SPF and PPD/SPA value; sunscreen filters etc.

Hi Eva,

The idea that my sunscreen might start working against me after only two hours is really disturbing. I would like a sunscreen formulation that either lasted longer or didn't cause more damage than would occur without the sunscreen. I suppose that means a physical filter, but I don't like whiteness. A chemical filter plus an antioxidant? A physical filter plus some sort of tint or dye that counteracted the whiteness? I would like a very high level of uva blocking with at least a moderate SPF. I don't really care what filters are in it, I only care about the performance. I'd also like it to not irritate my eyes. Definitely NO perfume.

[LSS]

Hello Eva,

I generally look for sunscreens with at least 50+ SPF, non-shiny finish, non-drying, no alcohol, no fragrance and as much UVA protection as possible (PPD 30 or higher is ideal) and some antioxidants. I don't like buying sunscreens in 50mL because that would only last several days to a week at appropriate usage rates. I also avoid sunscreens without estrogenic/uterophobic/allergenic filters like 4-MBC, Oxybenzone, etc... The Bioderma lait has been close to ideal in that regards.

My Ideal Sunscreen

Cosmetically elegant: light, non-whitening, matte or dewy finish that doesn't dry out the skin (Or the possibility of mixing the whitening sunscreen with a tinted version like Avene, Bioderma, LRP, etc..)
High UVA/UVB filters: Mexoryl SX + XL, Tinosorb M +S, Coated TiO2 + ZnO. Or a pure inorganic coated TiO2 +ZnO susncreen with a high PPD in a light, flesh-colored tint would work too.
UV Protective Antioxidants: Ectoin, Emblica, Green Tea, Ferulic Acid, Ellagaic Acid, Pomegranate Extract, Euk-134, Coffeeberry Extract, etc...
Anti-Inflammatory Ingredients: Bisobolol, Licochalone, Azulene, Willow Herb, etc..
Barrier Protective Moisturizers: Xylitol, Mannitol, Hyaluronic Acid, etc..
No Irritating/Sensitizing/Allergenic/Estrogenic Filters: Octyl Methoxycinnamate, Avobenzone, Octocrylene, 4-MBC, Oxybenzones, etc... (Cinnamates and Benzones irritate, sting & dry out my face when I'm using Retinoids, esp. with US sunscreens. This is true for many people. Avene seems to be the gentlest.)
Long Duration and/or Minimal Penetration: So that one would would not have to reapply every 2 hours
Economical & Affordable: 100ml (3.4 oz) or more
No eye irritation: A sunscreen that can be applied on eyelids without stinging. (AVO & OCTO always sting my eyes.)
Non-Comedogenicity: Avoidance of common comedogenic ingredients
Water Resistant & Sweatproof
No Alcohols: If possible
No Fragrance

If you could formulate something like this, I would buy it by the boatloads and recommend to everyone I know.

LSS

Edited by LSS, 17 April 2008 - 11:03 PM.

[Eva Victoria]

Thank you very much to you and Niner for the thorough description of your ideal sunscreen.
Am extremely impressed how much you know about sunscreen agents and additional ingredients! And how well you know what you look for in a sunscreen!

My sunscreen is something like this you have described with a very high PPD, combo filters (of TiO2, ZnO, Tinosorb M+S, Microbeads of OMC+AVO & much more) that are not nesseccery to reapply so often if one does not have the possibility.
Unfortunatelly I don't think it will be launched in Norway before May, Sweden next year and maybe after that in the EU :(

Thank you very much! Will keep it in mind all your info for my new addition to the sunscreen line!

All the best!
Eva Vic.

Hello Eva,

I generally look for sunscreens with at least 50+ SPF, non-shiny finish, non-drying, no alcohol, no fragrance and as much UVA protection as possible (PPD 30 or higher is ideal) and some antioxidants. I don't like buying sunscreens in 50mL because that would only last several days to a week at appropriate usage rates. I also avoid sunscreens without estrogenic/uterophobic/allergenic filters like 4-MBC, Oxybenzone, etc... The Bioderma lait has been close to ideal in that regards.

My Ideal Sunscreen

Cosmetically elegant: light, non-whitening, matte or dewy finish that doesn't dry out the skin (Or the possibility of mixing the whitening sunscreen with a tinted version like Avene, Bioderma, LRP, etc..)
High UVA/UVB filters: Mexoryl SX + XL, Tinosorb M +S, Coated TiO2 + ZnO. Or a pure inorganic coated TiO2 +ZnO susncreen with a high PPD in a light, flesh-colored tint would work too.
UV Protective Antioxidants: Ectoin, Emblica, Green Tea, Ferulic Acid, Ellagaic Acid, Pomegranate Extract, Euk-134, Coffeeberry Extract, etc...
Anti-Inflammatory Ingredients: Bisobolol, Licochalone, Azulene, Willow Herb, etc..
Barrier Protective Moisturizers: Xylitol, Mannitol, Hyaluronic Acid, etc..
No Irritating/Sensitizing/Allergenic/Estrogenic Filters: Octyl Methoxycinnamate, Avobenzone, Octocrylene, 4-MBC, Oxybenzones, etc... (Cinnamates and Benzones irritate, sting & dry out my face when I'm using Retinoids, esp. with US sunscreens. This is true for many people. Avene seems to be the gentlest.)
Long Duration and/or Minimal Penetration: So that one would would not have to reapply every 2 hours
Economical & Affordable: 100ml (3.4 oz) or more
No eye irritation: A sunscreen that can be applied on eyelids without stinging. (AVO & OCTO always sting my eyes.)
Non-Comedogenicity: Avoidance of common comedogenic ingredients
Water Resistant & Sweatproof
No Alcohols: If possible
No Fragrance

If you could formulate something like this, I would buy it by the boatloads and recommend to everyone I know.

LSS

[REGIMEN]

Life Extension makes an extremely effective sunblock. Try that as a foundation.

[Ben]

Eva where is this sunscreen you PROMISED us??!?!?!?

[kismet]

I'm wondering if one could make a sunscreen without C12-C15 alcohols benzoate, this ingredient seems to be included in all my sunscreens as one of the first 5 ingridients, how much % do you think this makes up? It is quite comedogenic, going by http://www.beautymag...f_cosmetic_.htm

I always feel like my acne gets much worse when using sunscreens, maybe because of the comedogenic ingredients and/or because I can't apply other topicals when I use them. Do you plan to include other benefical ingredients in your sunscreen?

Normally sunscreens feel heavy and make my skin sweaty. Do you know if your sunscreens are better in that regard compared to proprietary forumlations?

I might buy (don't know if you intend to make a profit on this?) your sunscreen if it is superior to the sunscreens I can get in Austria and not too expensive.

[Eva Victoria]

Eva where is this sunscreen you PROMISED us??!?!?!?

Hi Ben!

It is coming along very nicely!
Just takes a bit more time to get all the ingredients into the lab since now the sunscreen became 2 sunscreens (one which is very silicony, semi-matte in its finish and the other one that is more hydrating for people with dryer skin/colder weather). And along the way I made a very small skincare range that is packed with active ingredients (some RX only) that can help our skin "last longer" and hopefully younger

My plan is to have full production of the whole line from February and be able to launch it in the spring.

[Eva Victoria]

I'm wondering if one could make a sunscreen without C12-C15 alcohols benzoate, this ingredient seems to be included in all my sunscreens as one of the first 5 ingridients, how much % do you think this makes up? It is quite comedogenic, going by http://www.beautymag...f_cosmetic_.htm

I always feel like my acne gets much worse when using sunscreens, maybe because of the comedogenic ingredients and/or because I can't apply other topicals when I use them. Do you plan to include other benefical ingredients in your sunscreen?

Normally sunscreens feel heavy and make my skin sweaty. Do you know if your sunscreens are better in that regard compared to proprietary forumlations?

I might buy (don't know if you intend to make a profit on this?) your sunscreen if it is superior to the sunscreens I can get in Austria and not too expensive.

One can make a sunscreen without C12-C15 alcohol benzoate. It imparts a dry lubricating feel in the presence of large amounts
of mineral oil or petrolatum. It is also a superior solubizer of lipophilic cosmetic raw materials, also used in parfumes so fragrances last longer. It is versatile and cheap hence it is used in many products.

None of my products contain C12-C15 alcohol benzoate. But the products I make for myself don't have to be cost effective either!

My sunscreen has sprang out from two desires:
1. Lack of good enough sunscreen products on the market that provide sufficient UVA protection without being too whitening.
2. Consistency of existing sunscreens with acceptable UVA protection.

My sunscreens and other products have one thing in common: matte/semi-matte finish after application. No shine! Concentrated activ ingredients that have proven beneficial results for skin with proven anti-aging effect.
Lack of unnecessary ingredients that are usually used for "filling up" the product. Like fragrance, thickeners, unnecessary use of silicon oil, petrolatum (used for moisturizing) etc.
I use pure superior ingredients bought from several Swiss companies that follow "green" production and certified as Swiss quality product.
These include:
Green-tea and white tea extract; an extract that has cell life prolonging activity (backed up by studies and research) and anti-oxidant.
I use humectant that have natural origins like hylaronic acid in much larger quantities than it can be found in products normally (it is 1% or lower, I use 5% and sometimes more).
I use Phytic Acid in high concentration in a delivery system that makes that it is gentle on the skin. It is a chalating anti-oxidant! It is not used in cosmetics (yet).
Pure L-Ascorbic -Acid that is mixed in the product by the costumer so the products efficiency is prolonged. (15 and 20% concentration in a unique delivery system).
Vitamin E and P that have nano-size delivery systems ensuring delivery of the actives in deeper layers of the skin hence preserving their anti-oxidant properties longer and make it more available for skin cells.
I use a combination of many UV filters to ensure proper photo stable long lasting UVA protection.

And yes these products are expensive to produce.
But my mission is that the sunscreens shall be sold for only cost price.

I can state that all these products are superior to all products on the market today (except when it comes to Tretinoin and Hydroquinone of course).
The reason is: the very high concentration of the actives and the unique delivery systems used that ensure much higher penetration.
Lack of fragrance.

[Ben]

Eva where is this sunscreen you PROMISED us??!?!?!?

Hi Ben!

It is coming along very nicely!
Just takes a bit more time to get all the ingredients into the lab since now the sunscreen became 2 sunscreens (one which is very silicony, semi-matte in its finish and the other one that is more hydrating for people with dryer skin/colder weather). And along the way I made a very small skincare range that is packed with active ingredients (some RX only) that can help our skin "last longer" and hopefully younger

My plan is to have full production of the whole line from February and be able to launch it in the spring.

Oh man, that's exciting. I was actually going to suggest two sunscreens! One for dry skin or in summer, and vica versa.

Consider my bank account ready and willing

[Eva Victoria]

Eva where is this sunscreen you PROMISED us??!?!?!?

Hi Ben!

It is coming along very nicely!
Just takes a bit more time to get all the ingredients into the lab since now the sunscreen became 2 sunscreens (one which is very silicony, semi-matte in its finish and the other one that is more hydrating for people with dryer skin/colder weather). And along the way I made a very small skincare range that is packed with active ingredients (some RX only) that can help our skin "last longer" and hopefully younger

My plan is to have full production of the whole line from February and be able to launch it in the spring.

Oh man, that's exciting. I was actually going to suggest two sunscreens! One for dry skin or in summer, and vica versa.

Consider my bank account ready and willing

You are funny