Exp Gerontol. 2008 Apr 7; : 18485649 (P,S,G,E,B,D) Reconstructed skin modified by glycation of the dermal equivalent as a model for skin aging and its potential use to evaluate anti-glycation molecules.
Hervé Pageon, Marie-Pascale Técher, Daniel Asselineau L'Oréal, Life Sciences Advanced Research, Centre Charles Zviak, 90 rue du Général Roguet, 92583 Clichy, France.
Glycation is a slow chemical reaction which takes place between amino residues in protein and a reducing sugar. In skin this reaction creates new residues or induces the formation of cross-links (advanced glycation end products or AGEs) in the extracellular matrix of the dermis. Formation of such cross-links between macromolecules may be responsible for loss of elasticity or modification of other properties of the dermis observed during aging. We had previously developed a reconstructed skin model which enabled us to study the consequences of matrix alteration by preglycation of the collagen and have reported several modifications of interest induced by glycation in the dermal and epidermal compartments of reconstructed skin as well as at the level of the dermal-epidermal junction. For example we showed that collagen IV and laminin were increased in the basement membrane zone and that alpha6 and beta1 integrins in epidermis were expanded to suprabasal layers. The aim of this new study was to look at the biological effects of glycation inhibitors like aminoguanidine in the skin model. Aminoguanidine was mixed with collagen in the presence of ribose as reducing sugar, and immunostaining was used to visualize its effects on AGE Products and biological markers. After aminoguanidine treatment, we found a low amount of AGE products and a possible return to the normal pattern of distribution of markers in skin constructs as compared to those treated with ribose only. Interestingly similar results were also obtained, although to a lesser extent, with a blueberry extract. In conclusion the glycation inhibitory effect has been functionally demonstrated in the reconstructed skin model and it is shown that this model can be used to assess anti-glycation agents.
I did some detective work (googling that is) and here is the commercial result of the above L'Oréal research on anti-glycation agents: Skinceuticals (L'Oréal) new "A.G.E. Interrupter" with 4% blueberry extract and 30% (!) "Pro-xylane". Who knows if these two ingredients work, since there´s no published studies on this cream yet, just lab work with pure ingredients on reconstructed skin. But if this works then it would be a perfect addition to a collagen and elastin regenerating regime since the three major molecules in skin are collagen, elastin and hyaluronic acid.
http://www.treatment...nterrupter.htmlThe patent description: "Use of an extract of at least one vaccinium-type plant as an anti-glycation agent"
http://www.patentsto...8/fulltext.htmlPro-xylane is the TM name of their patented glycosaminoglycan (GAG) stimulating xylose-derivative (my eye cream I´m test driving has 5%). GAGs can bind 1000 time their weight in water and are natural constituents of skin.
A bit about their "Pro-xylane" molecule and what it supposedly does, at least to aged atrophic skin:
http://www.timesonli...ticle690392.eceand from Pubmed:
A new C-xylopyranoside derivative induces skin expression of glycosaminoglycans and heparan sulphate proteoglycans. Pineau N,
Bernerd F,
Cavezza A,
Dalko-Csiba M,
Breton L. L'Oréal Recherche, 90 rue du Général Roguet, 92583 Clichy cedex, France. npineau@rd.loreal.com
Severe structural changes, including deterioration of the mechanical properties of the dermis, occur during skin aging. It is well known that the degradation of the extracellular matrix contributes to the physical changes in aged skin. Whereas many studies have been devoted to age-related alterations of collagen fibrils, far less attention has been paid to another major family of extracellular matrix components, the glycosaminoglycans (GAGs) and proteoglycans (PGs). Heparan sulphate-proteoglycans, (HS-PGs), a subclass of the PG family that decreases during aging, regulate proliferation and proteolysis as well as matrix adhesion and assembly, and thus, may have important functions in skin. These PGs may represent important targets for dermo-cosmetology in fighting skin aging. The purpose of this study was to demonstrate the potential of a new C-xylopyranoside derivative (C-beta-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane simplified as C-Xyloside) to improve HS-PGs expression in human skin. In an organotypical model of corticosteroid atrophic human skin, characterized by a decrease of PGs expression, treatment with C-Xyloside improved expression of HS-PGs.
PMID: 18086587
Edited by Fredrik, 03 October 2008 - 03:27 PM.