579 replies to this topic

[happy lemon]

......I can see why you might not like the second sunscreen. It mst be rather sticky and not very flattering for the face. Although it has excellent anti-oxidants! The first one should at least have Vit. E combined with Vit. C. Is it Allie SPF 50+?

Hi Eva,

Nice to hear from you again! Hope that you're doing well!

Yes, the first one is Allie & I am happy with it but worry its UVA protection.

The second one is Burnout, it is a bit sticky. Compared with other USA sunscreen, it is not so white, but it is not really cosmetically elegant.

Thanks for your suggestion because I never think that I can mix ZnO powder to a sunscreen.

Do I need a high speed blender to mix ZnO powder to Allie?

By the way, really hope that I can see your sunscreen in the market soon so that I don't have to worry anything!

[Eva Victoria]

Hi Happy Lemon,

Nice to hear from you too! I am very well thank you though immensely busy with work.
You can add 3-5% ZnO (coated) directly to the Allie sunscreen and shake it vigorously for a few minutes. Since it is W/Si formulation and needs to be shaken before application, the ZnO (3-5%) will be dispersed easily without need for additional mixing device. you can also add 0.1% Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate and 0.1% Tocepheryl Acetate for additional antioxidant protection. (I am sure you will be able to find these ingredients as well on makingcosmetics.com).
I will let you know when my sunscreen will be available. Hopefully soon!
Have a lovely springday, HL!

......I can see why you might not like the second sunscreen. It mst be rather sticky and not very flattering for the face. Although it has excellent anti-oxidants! The first one should at least have Vit. E combined with Vit. C. Is it Allie SPF 50+?

Hi Eva,

Nice to hear from you again! Hope that you're doing well!

Yes, the first one is Allie & I am happy with it but worry its UVA protection.

The second one is Burnout, it is a bit sticky. Compared with other USA sunscreen, it is not so white, but it is not really cosmetically elegant.

Thanks for your suggestion because I never think that I can mix ZnO powder to a sunscreen.

Do I need a high speed blender to mix ZnO powder to Allie?

By the way, really hope that I can see your sunscreen in the market soon so that I don't have to worry anything!

Edited by Eva Victoria, 17 May 2012 - 07:44 PM.

[happy lemon]

Thank you so much, Eva!

Have a good weekend!

[wing767]

Hi Eva,

i have read your answers. Thank you for your time and knowledge. So many information made me confused if i am on the right way. I have moved to work to Dubai where the sun is killing. I stay most day in the office with a few minutes exposure to the sun when running to the car in the morning and during the day. I have been using La Roche Posay Anthelios SPF50+ XL Extreme Fluid and covering it with mineral powder SPF 20(Jane Iredale) every morning then i read that this a chemical ss that will protect me only for 2 hrs. I have no possibility to reapply it every 2 hrs. i am looking to buy phisical sunscreen to avoid application every 2 hrs; so far i have seen Obagi Obagi Medical Nu-Derm Sun Shield SPF 50 Sunscreen Lotion with Active Ingredients: Octinoxate 7.5%, Zinc Oxide 10.5%. I will cover it with mineral powder. Eva please advise if i will be well protected with it . Any other recommendationds for such a hot climate from your side. thank you!

[Eva Victoria]

Hi Wing767,

If you have only a very short period of time spent outside then I think you can safely use LRP Anthelios SPF 50+. It will not require reapplying. You should reapply it if you are out in the sun for extended periods of time.
There has been a lot of new results of research that indicate that organic filters after all are not the best way to protect against UVR. Hence investing in a sunscreen with ZnO might not be a bad choice.
Obagi Medical Nu-Derm Sun Shield SPF 50 is a good choice also considering that it is very light and matte that is a big plus in a hot and humid climate!
Enjoy your time in Dubai!

Hi Eva,

i have read your answers. Thank you for your time and knowledge. So many information made me confused if i am on the right way. I have moved to work to Dubai where the sun is killing. I stay most day in the office with a few minutes exposure to the sun when running to the car in the morning and during the day. I have been using La Roche Posay Anthelios SPF50+ XL Extreme Fluid and covering it with mineral powder SPF 20(Jane Iredale) every morning then i read that this a chemical ss that will protect me only for 2 hrs. I have no possibility to reapply it every 2 hrs. i am looking to buy phisical sunscreen to avoid application every 2 hrs; so far i have seen Obagi Obagi Medical Nu-Derm Sun Shield SPF 50 Sunscreen Lotion with Active Ingredients: Octinoxate 7.5%, Zinc Oxide 10.5%. I will cover it with mineral powder. Eva please advise if i will be well protected with it . Any other recommendationds for such a hot climate from your side. thank you!

[wing767]

Thank you Eva!

[wing767]

Eva , i want to disturb you with one more question, that bothers me. I am 32 and i started using Retin-A 0,05 - 2 months only. I use it at PM 3 times a week, the other 4 times i use AHA 10% cream at PM. My skin peels off very often, i understand that it is normal, but i have doubts -shall i minimise the use of AHA cream let's say to 2 times per week? will it have the same effect on the skin? thank you.

[Eva Victoria]

If you have normal or sensitive skin then it might not be necessary to use an AHA containing product when you already use Retin-A. If your skin is oily and has a thicker upper-layer then it is a good combination to alternate AHA and Retin-A.
There is another possibility. Use Retin-A at night 3 times a week and increase it to the usage of every evening within 6 months. Then you are well accustomed to it and then you can combine with AHA 1-2 times a week (AM only). This is also a regimen for oilier/tougher skin-types.
Overdoing it may cause more harm. I think little goes a long way especially with such potent ingredients on their own, let alone combined.

Eva , i want to disturb you with one more question, that bothers me. I am 32 and i started using Retin-A 0,05 - 2 months only. I use it at PM 3 times a week, the other 4 times i use AHA 10% cream at PM. My skin peels off very often, i understand that it is normal, but i have doubts -shall i minimise the use of AHA cream let's say to 2 times per week? will it have the same effect on the skin? thank you.

[wing767]

If you have normal or sensitive skin then it might not be necessary to use an AHA containing product when you already use Retin-A. If your skin is oily and has a thicker upper-layer then it is a good combination to alternate AHA and Retin-A.
There is another possibility. Use Retin-A at night 3 times a week and increase it to the usage of every evening within 6 months. Then you are well accustomed to it and then you can combine with AHA 1-2 times a week (AM only). This is also a regimen for oilier/tougher skin-types.
Overdoing it may cause more harm. I think little goes a long way especially with such potent ingredients on their own, let alone combined.

Eva , i want to disturb you with one more question, that bothers me. I am 32 and i started using Retin-A 0,05 - 2 months only. I use it at PM 3 times a week, the other 4 times i use AHA 10% cream at PM. My skin peels off very often, i understand that it is normal, but i have doubts -shall i minimise the use of AHA cream let's say to 2 times per week? will it have the same effect on the skin? thank you.

Thank you Eva. I would say my skin is not oily, althouhg i have acne. I will skip using AHA. I was using lactycid to wash the face as well. All this was making me look like a peeling potato most of the time. Thank you for your help.

[Eva Victoria]

You are welcome.
For facewash there is LRP Lipikar Syndet (Gel) that will respect your skin, very gentle but an excellent and efficient facewash! (Even though the package states that it is for body, it is mild enough to use it on the face.)

If you have normal or sensitive skin then it might not be necessary to use an AHA containing product when you already use Retin-A. If your skin is oily and has a thicker upper-layer then it is a good combination to alternate AHA and Retin-A.
There is another possibility. Use Retin-A at night 3 times a week and increase it to the usage of every evening within 6 months. Then you are well accustomed to it and then you can combine with AHA 1-2 times a week (AM only). This is also a regimen for oilier/tougher skin-types.
Overdoing it may cause more harm. I think little goes a long way especially with such potent ingredients on their own, let alone combined.

Eva , i want to disturb you with one more question, that bothers me. I am 32 and i started using Retin-A 0,05 - 2 months only. I use it at PM 3 times a week, the other 4 times i use AHA 10% cream at PM. My skin peels off very often, i understand that it is normal, but i have doubts -shall i minimise the use of AHA cream let's say to 2 times per week? will it have the same effect on the skin? thank you.

Thank you Eva. I would say my skin is not oily, althouhg i have acne. I will skip using AHA. I was using lactycid to wash the face as well. All this was making me look like a peeling potato most of the time. Thank you for your help.

[happy lemon]

Eva,

We are often told that we should apply 2 mg of sunscreen per square centimeter of skin.

Is it just for chemical sunscreen only? And, does this rule only apply to all-day outdoor activities?

If I just work indoor and apply sunscreen with 16% ZnO (Allie); can I just apply a thin layer of sunscreen on my skin and then I will have good amount of UVB & UVA protection?

[Eva Victoria]

It applies to all sunscreens since the determination of the SPF and PPD values are made from the application of this amount.
Applying half of this amount will reduce the SPF over 50% and the PPD about 45-50%.

Inorganic sunscreens are photostable and will not require reapplication (unless sweat, swimming etc) unlike organic sunscreens. These should be reapplied every 2 h.

Eva,

We are often told that we should apply 2 mg of sunscreen per square centimeter of skin.

Is it just for chemical sunscreen only? And, does this rule only apply to all-day outdoor activities?

If I just work indoor and apply sunscreen with 16% ZnO (Allie); can I just apply a thin layer of sunscreen on my skin and then I will have good amount of UVB & UVA protection?

Edited by Eva Victoria, 04 June 2012 - 08:30 PM.

[Brafarality]

Hey, Eva! Not sure if you remember me, but that doesn't really matter since my question is for the moment and not hung on nostalgia:
Is your sunscreen available yet in the United States?
It sounded wicked cool when you explained it a year or two ago and just wondering on how it's going. Thanks and ciao!

Edited by Brafarality, 05 June 2012 - 12:07 PM.

[Eva Victoria]

Hi Brafarality,

It is not yet available. Sorry. I have written about it in the thread: "My new susncreen launched". You can find the ingredients list for the two new sunscreens that I am currently working on and hope to get it launched very soon.
Thank you for your interest, Brafarality!

Hey, Eva! Not sure if you remember me, but that doesn't really matter since my question is for the moment and not hung on nostalgia:
Is your sunscreen available yet in the United States?
It sounded wicked cool when you explained it a year or two ago and just wondering on how it's going. Thanks and ciao!

[wing767]

Eva, I would appreciate your opinion on the below sunscreen and Vitamin C20 cream.
I have got attracted by this sunscreen as it has physical filters, but there is no indication of percentage.
Coverderm Filtray SPF 60
Aqua, Titanium Diozide, Zinc Oxide, Isohexadecane, Polyacrylate-17,Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Triethylhexanoin, Propylene Glycol, Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate, PEG-30, Dipolyhydroxystearate, Cyclomethicone, PPG-15, Stearyl Ether, Carallina Officinalis Extract, Persea Gratissima Oil, Phytosterols, Olea Europaea,C30-45 Alkyl Cetearyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, C30-45 Alkyl Methicone, C3045 Olefin, Dimethicone, Isostearic Acid, Magnesium Stearate, Candellila Cera, Magnesium Sulfate, Alumina, Polyhydroxystearic Acid, AluminumStearate, Butylene Glycol, Phenoxyethanol, Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Xanthan Gum, Atelocollagen,Sodium Chondroitin Sulfate, Polysorbate20, Methylparaben, Ethylparaben,Propylparaben, 2-Bromo-2-Nitropropane-1, 3-Diol, BHT, Parfum, CI 77491,CI77492, CI77499
Hydracyd crème C20 SVR
Can it be used in the morning under the sunscreen? Or can you recommend any better antioxidant?
Aqua (Purified Water), Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate, Cyclopentasiloxane, Methyl Methacrylate Crosspolymer, SMyristyl Alcohol, Sorbitol, PEG-100 Stearate, Glyceryl Stearate, Xylitylglucosides, Pentylene Glycol, Glycerin, Butyrospermum ParkII Butter (Shea Butter), Myristyl Glucoside, Dimethicone, Anhydroxylitol, Xylitol, Xanthan Gum, Parfaffinum Liquidum (Mineral Oil), Citric Acid, Sodium Citrate, Silica, Propylparbaen, Methylparaben, Parfum, Cl 15985.
Thank you and looking forward to your reply.

[Vanity Fair]

Hi Eva,
Gosh, it seems like I am stalking you as I also posted three times on the ' sunscreen profile ' thread with some questions for you.
I have just been using the new Protect and Repair product from this Crystal Clear line. It feels very protective, goes on a bit white but then becomes tranparant and is quite thick and oily in the beginning.It contains tinisorb M amongst other things. However, I just find that my skin looks worse in the evening, much more fine dehydration lines.
Could it actually be that all these sunscreens are drying and not very great for your skin? Do you know of one that actually nourishes your skin as well as protect it?
Tried the supergoop one with 20 % zinc, very drying, same goes for bioderma photomax spf 50.

Once again, sorry to be such pain but looking forward to hear your advice

[Eva Victoria]

Eva, I would appreciate your opinion on the below sunscreen and Vitamin C20 cream.
I have got attracted by this sunscreen as it has physical filters, but there is no indication of percentage.
Coverderm Filtray SPF 60
Aqua, Titanium Diozide, Zinc Oxide, Isohexadecane, Polyacrylate-17,Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Triethylhexanoin, Propylene Glycol, Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate, PEG-30, Dipolyhydroxystearate, Cyclomethicone, PPG-15, Stearyl Ether, Carallina Officinalis Extract, Persea Gratissima Oil, Phytosterols, Olea Europaea,C30-45 Alkyl Cetearyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, C30-45 Alkyl Methicone, C3045 Olefin, Dimethicone, Isostearic Acid, Magnesium Stearate, Candellila Cera, Magnesium Sulfate, Alumina, Polyhydroxystearic Acid, AluminumStearate, Butylene Glycol, Phenoxyethanol, Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Xanthan Gum, Atelocollagen,Sodium Chondroitin Sulfate, Polysorbate20, Methylparaben, Ethylparaben,Propylparaben, 2-Bromo-2-Nitropropane-1, 3-Diol, BHT, Parfum, CI 77491,CI77492, CI77499
Hydracyd crème C20 SVR
Can it be used in the morning under the sunscreen? Or can you recommend any better antioxidant?
Aqua (Purified Water), Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate, Cyclopentasiloxane, Methyl Methacrylate Crosspolymer, SMyristyl Alcohol, Sorbitol, PEG-100 Stearate, Glyceryl Stearate, Xylitylglucosides, Pentylene Glycol, Glycerin, Butyrospermum ParkII Butter (Shea Butter), Myristyl Glucoside, Dimethicone, Anhydroxylitol, Xylitol, Xanthan Gum, Parfaffinum Liquidum (Mineral Oil), Citric Acid, Sodium Citrate, Silica, Propylparbaen, Methylparaben, Parfum, Cl 15985.
Thank you and looking forward to your reply.

I think you can find moisturizers/serums with a broader range of anti-oxidants and cell-communicating ingredients than this moisturizer.
The sunscreen seems to be descent though it should include more anti-oxidants for better environmental protection.

[Eva Victoria]

Hi Eva,
Gosh, it seems like I am stalking you as I also posted three times on the ' sunscreen profile ' thread with some questions for you.
I have just been using the new Protect and Repair product from this Crystal Clear line. It feels very protective, goes on a bit white but then becomes tranparant and is quite thick and oily in the beginning.It contains tinisorb M amongst other things. However, I just find that my skin looks worse in the evening, much more fine dehydration lines.
Could it actually be that all these sunscreens are drying and not very great for your skin? Do you know of one that actually nourishes your skin as well as protect it?
Tried the supergoop one with 20 % zinc, very drying, same goes for bioderma photomax spf 50.

Once again, sorry to be such pain but looking forward to hear your advice

Hi Vanity Fair,

Usually products that contain organic sunscreen filters tend to irritate the skin more than products with inorganic filters when used regularly. For everyday use it is milder for your skin to used a well-formulated moisturizer that contains emollients and anti-oxidants combined with ZnO and OMC. These filters (even though not so much favoured at the moment) have a very long, documented and safe history of use. The only product I can come up with at the moment is MAC Studio Moisture SPF 15 with 3.5% OMC and 6.84% ZnO.

[Vanity Fair]

Hi Eva,
Thank you ever so much for responding to my questions.
I have to say, it's a bit frustrating to be buying al these products, only to find out they are all lacking in something.
So i suppose I ' ll wait untill your sunscreen will be available.
Will it be quite moisturizing as well, as it seems you do like a matte finish?

Edited by Vanity Fair, 10 June 2012 - 01:32 PM.

[Eva Victoria]

All my sunscreens have a very light consistency. For young people, people with combination skin type or people living in a humid (warm) climate it will give enough moisturization if used alone.
And yes, I do prefer mattish silky natural finish oppossed to the oily, shiny finish of most sunscreens

Hi Eva,
Thank you ever so much for responding to my questions.
I have to say, it's a bit frustrating to be buying al these products, only to find out they are all lacking in something.
So i suppose I ' ll wait untill your sunscreen will be available.
Will it be quite moisturizing as well, as it seems you do like a matte finish?

[wing767]

I think you can find moisturizers/serums with a broader range of anti-oxidants and cell-communicating ingredients than this moisturizer.
The sunscreen seems to be descent though it should include more anti-oxidants for better environmental protection.

Thank you Eva. I seem to be confused with antioxidant cream. Went tru the forum: Clinique and Skinciuticals are mentioned most of all. Will look into it. I am also waiting till your sunscreens appears.Hope it will come soon , wish you all the best in getting it out to puplic!

[Vanity Fair]

Hi Eva,

I can't seem to help myself, patience has never been my forte so whilst I am waiting for your sunscreen, I am still looking around for second best.

INGREDIENTS:
Aqua, Cyclohexasiloxane, Octocrylene, Butylene Glycol, Tridecyl Salicylate, Bis Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine, Methylene Bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol, VP/Eicosene Copolymer, Titanium Dioxide, Styrene/Acrylates Copolymer, Glycine Soja Extract, Glycerin, Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate, Silica, Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane, PEG-100 Stearate, Glyceryl Stearate, Dipropylene Glycol, Caprylyl Glycol, Ethylhexyl Stearate, Chrysanthemum Parthenium Extract, Alumina, Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein PG-Propyl Methylsilanediol, Linseed Acid, Tocopheryl Acetate, Cyclopentasiloxane, Dimethicone, Polyacrylate-13, Propylene Glycol, Potassium Cetyl Phosphate, Decyl Glucoside, Sodium Dodecylbenzenesulfonate, Polysorbate 20, Glyceryl Laurate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Polyisobutene, Stearic Acid, Xanthan Gum, Acrylates Copolymer, PEG-8 Laurate, Phenylpropanol, Disodium EDTA, Methylparaben, Phenoxyethanol, Parfum.

Thanks for your time

[Vanity Fair]

Sorry, posted twice

Edited by Vanity Fair, 11 June 2012 - 12:12 PM.

[Vanity Fair]

Hi Eva,

I am wondering what your thoughts are on " all natural" sunscreens likecthe ones for example with the ingredients listted below.
My worry is that they use uncoated zinc, however, they claim that the natural oils and wax coat the zinc particles so therefor not to worry about free radicals or instability.
What do you think? Also, are all the ingredients they use compatible with the zinc? And bcause they claim it is coated can you layer these with the ' chemical ' sunscreens ?

Ingredients: Active Ingredient: Zinc Oxide 20%. Inactive Ingredients: Organic Aloe Vera Juice, Fresh Spring Water, Organic Beeswax, Grapeseed Oil, Sunflower Seed Lecithin, Zanthan Gum.
Or
25% non-nano Zinc Oxide
Eldorado Springs Artesian Spring Water
Certified Organic Extra Virgin Olive Oil
Certified Organic Beeswax
Vegetable Vitamin E (non-gmo from sunflower seeds)
Vitamin D3 (Cholecalciferol, 400IU/ounce sunscreen)

Once again, apologies for taking up your time but thank you so much in advance

Ps i know what you mean about the ' shine' but darling, once you have reached a certain age, it's a choice between shine or dull dryness😉

[Eva Victoria]

This might be very grasy.
But the susncreen formula you have posted previously seems to be a nice formula! It has not only good UVA filters but also a PPD booster!
What is the name of this sunscreen?

Hi Eva,

I am wondering what your thoughts are on " all natural" sunscreens likecthe ones for example with the ingredients listted below.
My worry is that they use uncoated zinc, however, they claim that the natural oils and wax coat the zinc particles so therefor not to worry about free radicals or instability.
What do you think? Also, are all the ingredients they use compatible with the zinc? And bcause they claim it is coated can you layer these with the ' chemical ' sunscreens ?

Ingredients: Active Ingredient: Zinc Oxide 20%. Inactive Ingredients: Organic Aloe Vera Juice, Fresh Spring Water, Organic Beeswax, Grapeseed Oil, Sunflower Seed Lecithin, Zanthan Gum.
Or
25% non-nano Zinc Oxide
Eldorado Springs Artesian Spring Water
Certified Organic Extra Virgin Olive Oil
Certified Organic Beeswax
Vegetable Vitamin E (non-gmo from sunflower seeds)
Vitamin D3 (Cholecalciferol, 400IU/ounce sunscreen)

Once again, apologies for taking up your time but thank you so much in advance

Ps i know what you mean about the ' shine' but darling, once you have reached a certain age, it's a choice between shine or dull dryness😉

[Vanity Fair]

Hi Eva,

It's Roc Soleil anti brown spot cream spf 50.
Since you think it is quite valid, I might buy that whilst waiting for yours.
Thanks for your advice, I really appreciate it.
So you what are your opinions about the " all natural " ones? Apart from the grease, do you think the Uva protection will be stable and ok?

[Vanity Fair]

Hi Eva,

Just for your information, they also do a Roc Soleil anti brown spot FLUID,

Aqua, Octocrylene, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Dimethicone, Ethylhexyl Salicylate, Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane, Butylene Glycol, Silica, Methyl Methacrylate Crosspolymer, Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine, Glycerin, Styrene (Acrylates Copolymer), Potassium Cetyl Phosphate, Methylene Bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol, Ascorbyl Glucoside, Chrysanthemum Parthenium Extract, Lecithin, Propylene Glycol, Caprylyl Glycol, Decyl Glucoside, Linseed Acid, Sodium Dodecylbezenesulfonate, PEG-8 Laurate, Acrylates Copolymer, Cetearyl Alcohol, Xanthan Gum, Sodium Acrylates Copolymer, Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Caprylhydroxamic Acid, Disodium EDTA, Sodium Hydroxide, Phenoxyethanol, Parfuml (Fragrance).

Which is better?

[Vanity Fair]

Eva,
They do quite a wide range of facial sunscreens, you might want to check it out, just for curiosity's sake.

Anyway, i went ahead and bought both the fluid and the cream.
That should keep me going till your sunscreen will be available
I am just hoping they won't be too drying as I would like to use them for every day wear as well, but I have just bought some olive squalane and also some hyauralonic acid/aloe so I'll use that underneath as a moisturizing base, and the c e ferulic.
I think you said it's not a problem to combine any other topical
skincare and tinosorb S/M and avobenzone. Or indeed even the meroxyl filters
Please correct me if I am wrong.

Thanks, VF

Edited by Vanity Fair, 11 June 2012 - 10:36 PM.

[Eva Victoria]

Thank you for the name of the Roc sunscreen. Indeed they use both Tinosorb filters

Natural sunscreens use TiO2 and/or ZnO. Both are inherently photo-stable, though TiO2 tends to oxidize esp. the uncoated version. It is advisable to coat ZnO as well for increased stability. In natural sunscreens one cannot use silicone coating so that will leave Stearic Acid. But the problem is not this, the problem is that these filters are dispersed in natural oils that themselves oxidize in the presence of UVR. They are not allowed to use BHA and BHT as anti-oxidants either. So what will that leave the formulator? Inorganic filters with natural oils.
How good is that for your skin when after a few hours (or less) the oils have oxidized?
Secondly, how elegant can a formulation be with oil (and grease)?

I personally am very much for ZnO (preferably silicone coated) as a UVA protector for everyday use. I do not recommend using products with silicones unless it is a sunscreen. (Though there is nothing wrong with linear- and most branched type silicones). Silicones will provide very elegant texture that will motivate the user to apply the cream regularly. Silicones (don't oxidize and) will also enhance film-formation of the product. This is crucial for a sunscreen to be evenly distributed on the (uneven) surface of the skin hence it will enhance its effect and will contribute to better protection.
Film-formers can and should be used additionally (depending on formualtion). But too much film-former can contribute to acne in some idividual. They are also very shiny on the skin and can contribute to "balling" effect that will make an additional product application difficult (like make-up). Silicones will aid using less film-formers and as a bonus a more elegant finish. Silicones also contribute to better water-resistance and light moisturization (depending on type it can also provide more subtle moisture) that will enhance the skin's natural moisture barrier. (This is of course not exclusive to silicones and this is achieved with natural oils, waxes and esters also).
There is also another aspect that one should consider when it comes to application of sunscreens: sunscreen should stay where it is applied. It should not migrate. Oils will not prevent this. Silicone oils and elastomers will provide emulsions that have a greater adherence to the surface of the skin.
Silicones will not absorb into the skin because of their higher molecular weight, hence the actives (sunscreen agents) will stay on the surface of the skin. It will result in less irritation of the skin and film-forming where the sunscreen agents will stay in the film and will be able to do their job more efficiently. Hence, silicones contribute to greater SPF and PPD. This will also result in the fact that less sunscreen agents will be needed to achieved a desired SPF/PPD. It results also in milder sunscreen products and less skin irritation. This is especially valid when formulating with organic sunscreens.
(Natural waxees will also provide more stay-put suncreens and better film-forming than oils. But the elegant texture will be missing from most natural waxes. Some natural waxes are almost as "perfect in this sence" as silicones (elastomers, silicone waxes) but they are far too expensive for lower price-range and for mid-market type of sunscreen formulations.)
A good solution would be (from a formulators point of view) is to use some silicones in a sunscreen formulation (that is meant to be used everyday) and combine them with natural emulsifiers (like Sorbitan Olivate, Cetearyl olivate, Arachidyl Alcohol, Behenyl Alcohol, Arachidyl Glucoside) and natural polymers along with an additional film-former. This will provide a Si/W formulation with a very elegant texture that perceived as quick-breaking on the skin with an extremely light watery after-feel that is absorbed fast into a luxurious and elegant finish. These formulations are of course little waterproof hence they should be used as an everyday product and not for the beach or where more heavy-duty sunscreens are needed.
On the other hand, sunscreens that are W/Si will be thinner and will be more water-resistant. They will need (several) silicone emulsifiers. (Natural polymers and most natural emulsifiers will not be compatible with a formulation like this). (Chanel UV essentiel SPF 50, La Mer UV-fluid SPF 30, Clarins UV-Plus SPF 40, LRP Anthelios Fluid Extreme SPF 30-50+ are all these type of formulations).

Hi Eva,

It's Roc Soleil anti brown spot cream spf 50.
Since you think it is quite valid, I might buy that whilst waiting for yours.
Thanks for your advice, I really appreciate it.
So you what are your opinions about the " all natural " ones? Apart from the grease, do you think the Uva protection will be stable and ok?

Edited by Eva Victoria, 12 June 2012 - 04:09 PM.

[Vanity Fair]

You are absolutely right about the grease, I looked for some reviews for this brand ( from the states) on makeup alley and quite a lot of users complained about breakouts etc.
Anyway, I swore to myself I will try the Roc, if that's not great, I ' ll stick with the Skinceuticals till you will launch your product.
Good luck with it!

I have one last question and then I will leave you in peace.
Would you please be so kind as to repeat one more time what kind of sunscreens you can layer without one of them becoming ineffective?
I know that avobenzone is compatibel only with coated ZnO but are there any other pittfalls or any other s screens or active ingredients that are incompatibel? Am I right in thinking that tinosorb and meroryl can be worn together?
And also, are there any other skincare ingredients that might affect the working of Tinosorb and/or Meroxyl and/ or mineral sunscreens?
For example, if you use a sunscreen that has uncoated zinc as active ingredient and underneath it you wear a moisturizer which contains aloe gel, will that degrade the zinc?
I realize there are a zillion ingredients out there but if you could tell me just the ones you are aware of that are not good to use in combination with a particular type of sunscreen or sunscreen ingredient, I would be very grateful.

Once again, I wish you all the best with your sunscreen launch.
I am sure that all the followers of this thread will be waiting in line to buy it.

Edited by Vanity Fair, 12 June 2012 - 10:21 PM.