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Please critique my C60 recipe

c60 recipe c60oo

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#31 sensei

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Posted 24 February 2015 - 03:00 AM

So you’re pushing it to 909 mcgs./ml.—even past the Vaughter product. Very interesting. I haven’t read all of your posts, but I’ve skimmed them. Are you filtering your final product?

 

No i don't filter at all

 

Latest pic

 

Left is tonight -- right was 3 days ago

 

definitely darker

Attached Files


Edited by sensei, 24 February 2015 - 03:06 AM.


#32 Heisenburger

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Posted 14 March 2015 - 08:06 PM

The Benchmark stirrer is doing the trick. I just finished preparing my first batch of 200 milliliters. I attempted to prepare an entire liter, but found that the oil is too viscous to stir at this volume. I was forced to reduce the volume to one-fifth that amount in order to get it to stir properly. The attached video attempts to show that the stirrer is struggling even at this reduced volume. At 1000 rpm, the vortex is about the diameter of a dime and only extends about two-thirds of the way to the bottom of the beaker. The vortex was actually larger in the afternoon when the house was warmer; that demonstrates how much of a difference there is between stirring vegetable oil and stirring something with the viscosity of water. The unit performed like a champ though, stirring the sample continuously for 17 days without breaking down.

 

The final product is a lot more pleasant tasting than the carbon60oliveoil.com product—it doesn’t burn going down. I used the Target store brand extra light oil, and omitted filtering. The concentration is 800 mcg./ml., and it is more of purplish color than a bright red color like the commercially premixed products or Sensei’s homemade product. Maybe the use of reagent-grade C60 is responsible for the difference; I don’t know.

 



Click HERE to rent this advertising spot for C60 HEALTH to support Longecity (this will replace the google ad above).

#33 niner

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Posted 14 March 2015 - 10:00 PM

The final product is a lot more pleasant tasting than the carbon60oliveoil.com product—it doesn’t burn going down. I used the Target store brand extra light oil, and omitted filtering. The concentration is 800 mcg./ml., and it is more of purplish color than a bright red color like the commercially premixed products or Sensei’s homemade product. Maybe the use of reagent-grade C60 is responsible for the difference; I don’t know.

 

I've used carbon60oliveoil.com a couple times, and I found it to taste relatively bland.  Maybe that's just because I normally use a pretty robust oil on food.  I've not used the Vaughter product, but I've seen it described as very strongly flavored.  Carbon60olivoils's stuff is very purple, and I always wondered how they got that color.  I've seen extra light olive oils that look essentially colorless.  Is that what yours was like?  Maybe that's the key to the purple color.   Maybe it has more linoleic acid in it?



#34 Heisenburger

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Posted 14 March 2015 - 11:27 PM

The Target stuff is pretty light colored, but certainly not colorless. It comes in a clear plastic bottle; take a look next time you’re in Target. You’ll see that it has a light and very clean look. Explaining the purple color most likely involves some chemistry that is way out of my league—hopefully somebody with more knowledge will happen by and offer some input.

 

The price differential is fantastic. Instead of paying $3.00 a teaspoon (4 milligrams C60), this homemade stuff works out to about 17 cents for an equivalent amount.



#35 sensei

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Posted 15 March 2015 - 04:22 PM

The Target stuff is pretty light colored, but certainly not colorless. It comes in a clear plastic bottle; take a look next time you’re in Target. You’ll see that it has a light and very clean look. Explaining the purple color most likely involves some chemistry that is way out of my league—hopefully somebody with more knowledge will happen by and offer some input.

 

The price differential is fantastic. Instead of paying $3.00 a teaspoon (4 milligrams C60), this homemade stuff works out to about 17 cents for an equivalent amount.

 

 

I'm wondering how you came to that figure of $3/teaspoon, and 17 cents. V is $2 per teaspoon -- see the price for raw C60 and olive oil below.

 

C60 99.95% from SES research is $460.00 for 5 grams ( V states 99.95% on their website) -- the cost for the raw C60 is 9.2 cents per milligram -- making just the raw C60 37 cents.

 

The olive oil I buy is moderately high quality and costs $10.00 per 500 ml.  That equals 2 cents per ml or 10 cents per teaspoon for raw olive oil.

 

The total is approximately $0.50 or 50 cents per teaspoon.  Which matches my figure of 1/4th the cost of V ($19 per 45 mg/50 ml bottle)


Edited by sensei, 15 March 2015 - 04:25 PM.


#36 Heisenburger

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Posted 16 March 2015 - 01:50 AM

The stuff from carbon60oliveoil.com is $58.00 for 100 ml. I rounded that up to 60 bucks. One teaspoon is almost exactly five ml. One-twentieth of $60.00 is $3.00. One gram of reagent-grade C60 is $42.00. Four thousand two hundred divided by 250 is 16.8. I didn’t count the price of the olive oil ($8.08/liter) or the cost of the electricity to run the stirrer.



#37 sensei

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Posted 16 March 2015 - 05:24 AM

The stuff from carbon60oliveoil.com is $58.00 for 100 ml. I rounded that up to 60 bucks. One teaspoon is almost exactly five ml. One-twentieth of $60.00 is $3.00. One gram of reagent-grade C60 is $42.00. Four thousand two hundred divided by 250 is 16.8. I didn’t count the price of the olive oil ($8.08/liter) or the cost of the electricity to run the stirrer.

 

Just be clear that you are not necessarily making the same thing that you or others are/were buying. (not that it effectively matters)

 

V uses 99.95% vacuum oven dried.  -- and their price is only $19 for 50ml -- even though it comes airmail from Europe, shipping is cheap it comes out to about $22 total per 50ml bottle. (45mg)

 

I don't know what carbon60 uses.

 

 

I use the 99.95% 


Edited by sensei, 16 March 2015 - 05:25 AM.


#38 pleb

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Posted 05 April 2015 - 09:57 AM

I've used the cheapest SES that Heisenberger mentions the 40 plus dollar stuff for 2-1/2 years now and have had no problems.

#39 Heisenburger

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Posted 05 April 2015 - 04:05 PM

What sold me on the reagent-grade was niner’s comment that that C70 has some interesting properties in and of itself which bear investigation. I figured that this may be one of those rare situations in life where doing something the cheaper way may actually be the better way.



#40 HighDesertWizard

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Posted 05 April 2015 - 06:19 PM

 

The cheap magnetic stirrers don't seem to have the gazoots to stir something as viscous as olive oil for days on end.  They tend to burn out.  One of our guys (hav) fried a bunch of hana stirrers, and eventually got a Benchmark stirrer (about $200).  I got one on his recommendation, and it has been reliable.  Regarding crushing between glass plates, I don't know.  C60 is pretty soft, so it might work, but you might want something convex so that you can concentrate more pressure on a crystal.  Some people have crushed it between two spoons.  You could probably use a glass plate and the back of a spoon, or maybe a glass rod.  Lots of ways would probably work.  Personally, I use a porcelain mortar and pestle, though I know that I lose a bit of it.  A stainless steel mortar & pestle might lose less, due to less porosity.

 

There does seem to be uneven quality. I've used a Hanna for a couple of years and haven't had a problem. But I'm only using it for this, cutting the power when not in use, and I use it at less than full speed. The price ranges on either side of a hundred. At Amazon, HI 190M-1 seems the most popular of that brand, with a lowest price of $86. As for crushing, a stainless mortar works very well, as it doesn't absorb the powder like ceramic.

 

I think grinding prior to mixing in Olive Oil is the single most important factor impacting how much and how quickly the C60 dissolves. I bought the mortar Turnbuckle provided a link to a while back. It works great. The only issue is that the C60 can tend to stick to both. Here's what I do to avoid losing much at all.

 

Wash hands. Do the grind in mortar. Measure and pour some specific small amount of Olive Oil into the mortar. Stir the Olive Oil/c60 mix in the mortar. The OO mix gets very dark because the C60 is concentrated. Pour that batch into whatever bottle you're using. (I now use dark wine bottles. They work great, especially the ones with a screw cap.) That first pour will get most of the C60 into the bottle. Pour another small amount of Oil into the mortar and repeat process as necessary. I also use use the pestle to stir and that gets C60 off the pestle.

 

There's always a bit left, but not much... And, well, that last bit is finger licking good. :-)


Edited by HighDesertWizard, 05 April 2015 - 06:21 PM.


#41 earthprisoner1

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Posted 08 February 2018 - 05:03 PM

I am also a newbie and after some research built a magnetic stir plate. Is pretty easy, a $5 computer fan with 2 whole earth magnets glued to the blades, an old power wart and a 10K pot to adjust speed. mount in a cigar box, I cut a hole but you don't have to, the magnets are strong. So the only thing you need to buy is a magnet for stirring.







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