Sunscreen Profiles
Forever21
07 Aug 2011
What products are best to buy in EU/USA?
Tinosorb S + M ? Where to get this nowadays?
mustardseed41
07 Aug 2011
What's the current state (summer 2011) of sunscreen regimen?
What products are best to buy in EU/USA?
Tinosorb S + M ? Where to get this nowadays?
US- Burnout, Eco, Purple Prairie
Europe-frenchcosmetics4less.com (Bioderma)
Or check amazon....400ml Bioderma spray bottle is a bargain there.
Eva Victoria
08 Aug 2011
What's the current state (summer 2011) of sunscreen regimen?
What products are best to buy in EU/USA?
Tinosorb S + M ? Where to get this nowadays?
EU: still LRP and Bioderma
US: Sunscreen that contain high amount of ZnO (>10%).
frisky
09 Aug 2011
Eva Victoria
09 Aug 2011
Uriage has a new line of sunscreen BarieSun 2011 with spf 30+ and spf50+.They use only 3 filters Tinosorb M , AVO and Ethylhexyl triazone.
They also have a mineral sunscreen SPF 50+. I could not find the ingredients but guessing it is TiO2 (since nobody now dares to touch ZnO anymore in the EU).
Eva Victoria
10 Aug 2011
Why is that?(since nobody now dares to touch ZnO anymore in the EU).
There is already explained in previous posts.
You'll find more info here as well:
http://ec.europa.eu/...s/out222_en.pdf
frisky
11 Aug 2011
Uriage has a new line of sunscreen BarieSun 2011 with spf 30+ and spf50+.They use only 3 filters Tinosorb M , AVO and Ethylhexyl triazone.
They also have a mineral sunscreen SPF 50+. I could not find the ingredients but guessing it is TiO2 (since nobody now dares to touch ZnO anymore in the EU).
Uriage Bariesun creme mineral spf 50+ inci : Titanium dioxid , C12-15 Alky benzoate , aqua(water),Uriage thermal spring water ,Paraffinum liquidum (mineral oil),Zinc oxide , Cyclopentasiloxane , Butylene glycol , Sodium chloride , glycerin itd...this is from Easyparapharmacie.com or beaute test.com both are French sites.
Eva Victoria
11 Aug 2011
Here is the full ingredients list for the Mineral Sunscreen:
URIAGE BARIESUN CREME MINERALE SPF50+
INCI : Titanium dioxide, C12-15 alkyl benzoate, aqua (water), Uriage thermal spring water, paraffinum liquidum (minera oil), zinc oxide, cyclopentasiloxane, butylene glycol, sodium chloride, glycerin, cyclohexasiloxane, alimina, CI 77891 (titanium dioxide), PEG-30 dipolhydroxystearate, stearic acid, hydroganated polydecene, magnesium stearate, PEG-45 (dodecyl glycol copolymer), stearalkonium hectorite, magnesium ulfate, glucose, diphenyl dimethicone, propylene carbonate, ricinus communis (castor) seed oil, CI 77492 (iron oxides), triethoxycaprylylsilane, citric acid, tocopheryl acetate, trehalose, CI 77491 (iron oxides), ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate, CI 77499 (iron oxides), glyceryl oleate, ascorbyl palmitate, tocopherol, talc.
Uriage has a new line of sunscreen BarieSun 2011 with spf 30+ and spf50+.They use only 3 filters Tinosorb M , AVO and Ethylhexyl triazone.
They also have a mineral sunscreen SPF 50+. I could not find the ingredients but guessing it is TiO2 (since nobody now dares to touch ZnO anymore in the EU).
Uriage Bariesun creme mineral spf 50+ inci : Titanium dioxid , C12-15 Alky benzoate , aqua(water),Uriage thermal spring water ,Paraffinum liquidum (mineral oil),Zinc oxide , Cyclopentasiloxane , Butylene glycol , Sodium chloride , glycerin itd...this is from Easyparapharmacie.com or beaute test.com both are French sites.
VesperLynd
30 Aug 2011

I have recently tested a new sunscreen - Beyond Coastal, Natural Clear SPF30+
It is zinc based, no titanium dioxide or other actives - I asked the company -
zinc is 20%, uncoated particles (they are "dispersed in jojoba oil") and particle size is greater than 100 nm.
Included below are the inactives. It went on my skin as white and slightly greasy, but when I rubbed it in, the whiteness went away and
greasiness disappeared. Thoughts on the effectiveness of this formula on th entire UV range? Thank you!
Protects Zinc Oxide UVA/UVB Natural Sunscreen Natural Inactive Ingredients Function




VesperLynd
30 Aug 2011
It is a zinc based sunscreen - at 20%. I contacted the company and learned that the particles are larger than 100nm and uncoated, but they are "dispersed in jojoba oil".
It was white and slightly greasy when I applied it to my skin. After I rubbed it in, most of the whiteness and greasiness went away.
Comments on the effectiveness of this sunscreen across the entire UV spectrum? Thank you!.
Active Ingredients:, PROTECTS: Zinc Oxide, Inactive Ingredients:, NOURISHES: Coconut Oil, Aloe Vera, Rose Hip Oil, Jojoba Seed Oil, Shea Butter, REPAIRS: Cocoa Seed Butter, Algae Extract, Vitamin E, Larch Tree Extract, Green Tea Leaf Extract, Vitamin C, Grape Seed Extract, Comfrey Plant Extract, Yerba Mate Leaf Extract, HYDRATES: Deionzed Water, Glycerin, Pro Vitamin B, OTHER: Cetearyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate, Dimethicone, Polysorbate 60, Lauric Arginate, Potassium Sorbate, Citric Acid, Behenyl Alcohol, Arachidyl Alcohol, Arachidylglucoside, Methylcellulose
Eva Victoria
30 Aug 2011
Difficult to say. Dispersing ZnO in so much natural oils can add to better film forming but they will not contribute to effectiveness of the protection as other waxes and silicone oils, or other known emollients would (like Butyloctyl Salicylate or Octyl Neopentanoate). This formula lacks also dispersing agent that would also contribute to better protection and better cosmetic perception of the product.
If ZnO is the sole UV protecting agent in this sunscreen and 20% gives SPF 30 (or even more) than the UVA protection is about 0.6-0.8/ percentage of active. Which would be about 10. I would guess that it would protect up to about 370 nm (calculating from the particle size that can achieve so high SPF without the aid of an organic UVB absorber).
But the best is to test the product in a lab for proper UVA protection. (If this sunscreen is sold in Australia than it will protect at least up to 360 nm.)
I have just tested a relatively new sunscreen: Beyond Coastal Natural Clear SPF30+.
It is a zinc based sunscreen - at 20%. I contacted the company and learned that the particles are larger than 100nm and uncoated, but they are "dispersed in jojoba oil".
It was white and slightly greasy when I applied it to my skin. After I rubbed it in, most of the whiteness and greasiness went away.
Comments on the effectiveness of this sunscreen across the entire UV spectrum? Thank you!.
Active Ingredients:, PROTECTS: Zinc Oxide, Inactive Ingredients:, NOURISHES: Coconut Oil, Aloe Vera, Rose Hip Oil, Jojoba Seed Oil, Shea Butter, REPAIRS: Cocoa Seed Butter, Algae Extract, Vitamin E, Larch Tree Extract, Green Tea Leaf Extract, Vitamin C, Grape Seed Extract, Comfrey Plant Extract, Yerba Mate Leaf Extract, HYDRATES: Deionzed Water, Glycerin, Pro Vitamin B, OTHER: Cetearyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate, Dimethicone, Polysorbate 60, Lauric Arginate, Potassium Sorbate, Citric Acid, Behenyl Alcohol, Arachidyl Alcohol, Arachidylglucoside, Methylcellulose
VesperLynd
31 Aug 2011
Also, I noticed that when they advertise "non-nano" - they are still using micronized particles - and I believe micronized is better for reducing the whitening, but less effective than regular particles?
Thank you, VL
Eva Victoria
01 Sep 2011
Micronized particles will protect better against UVA than nano-particles. Original particles can block UVA but they are very weak UVB protectors and need to use a high amount. It will be like white paint on the skin and very little elegant in so high concentrations.
But there is a solution: using different particle sizes in the same formulation to achieve better UVA protection and in the same time creating an elegant formulation.
Hi again, I have noticed that most of these zinc based sunscreens use particles that are not coated. Do you think that coating the particles is important for zinc?
Also, I noticed that when they advertise "non-nano" - they are still using micronized particles - and I believe micronized is better for reducing the whitening, but less effective than regular particles?
Thank you, VL
VesperLynd
08 Sep 2011
that compare to the European formulas (assume LRP & Bioderma) that use the Tinosorbs?
Thank you again, VL
Eva Victoria
12 Sep 2011
The answers you will find in two posts I posted in this topic on July 30th 2011 (with attached picture of the graphs of different UV filters) and July 31th 2011 (detailed answer about ZNO and Tinosorb S and Tinosorb M).
Hi again, if these American, zinc based (zinc greater than 10%) sunscreens provide protection of approx. PPD =10, how does
that compare to the European formulas (assume LRP & Bioderma) that use the Tinosorbs?
Thank you again, VL
VesperLynd
13 Sep 2011
I will have to educate myself elsewhere because apparently, I am not informed enough to calculate the approx. PPD ratings for the various formulas.
Nevertheless, thank you again for all your assistance.
VL
Eva Victoria
13 Sep 2011
The PPD ratings of such sunscreens depend on the amount of the different filters are used (and their combo). f. ex. in an LRP sunscreen (where Mexoryl SX, Mexoryl XL, Tinosorb S and AVO are combined) they can even reach as high as PPD 42. A Vichy sunscreen (SPF 30) can have PPD 10 with the same combo of UVA filters (in a smaller amount).
With chemical sunscreens it is easier to achieve high PPD ratings with less actives used (cheaper). But one should not forget that the protection is up to 375nm (unless Tinosorb M is added) whhile with ZnO the protection can be between 380-520 nm (depending on the article size). Also ZnO is inherently photo-stable! (And non-irritating etc). So everyday usage ZnO is an excellent alternative.
Thank you for pointing me to the postings on those dates that provided a graph and describes the various properties of the Tinosorbs.
I will have to educate myself elsewhere because apparently, I am not informed enough to calculate the approx. PPD ratings for the various formulas.
Nevertheless, thank you again for all your assistance.
VL
VesperLynd
13 Sep 2011
I am just wondering, if/when I find a good zinc based sunscreen - if there is any value in me also searching for a European sunscreen.
I am planning to use the ZnO based sunscreen for everday usage. It will cost quite a bit more to locate and ship a European sunscreen using the Tinosorbs, so I am trying to decide if it would be beneficial to *also* use a European sunscreen - maybe one for summer, one for winter, etc. I am concerned with the entire spectrum, UVB as well as UVA and beyond.
Thank you again! VL
Eva Victoria
13 Sep 2011
Again: ZnO usually protects up to 380 nm (and can protect higher) while Tinosorb S will protect up to 375 nm, Tinosorb M 388 nm.
I Attach a little leaflet I made for the protection spectrum of UV filters. Hopefully it can be useful.
Hi again Eva, no problem, I always appreciate your comments and important information.
I am just wondering, if/when I find a good zinc based sunscreen - if there is any value in me also searching for a European sunscreen.
I am planning to use the ZnO based sunscreen for everday usage. It will cost quite a bit more to locate and ship a European sunscreen using the Tinosorbs, so I am trying to decide if it would be beneficial to *also* use a European sunscreen - maybe one for summer, one for winter, etc. I am concerned with the entire spectrum, UVB as well as UVA and beyond.
Thank you again! VL
Attached Files
lucaasalberto
09 Nov 2011
Could you tell me what you think about this US sunscreen?
Coppertone Kids Pure & Simple Sunscreen Lotion SPF 50
Ingredients:
Active: Octinoxate (7.5%), Octisalate (5%), Zinc Oxide (14.5%)
Other: Water, Propylene Glycol, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Neopentyl Glycol Diheptanoate, Cyclopentasiloxane, Cetyl Peg/Ppg-10/1 Dimethicone, Peg-12 Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Triethoxycaprylylsilane, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Diazolidinyl Urea, Methylparaben, Propylparaben, Sodium Chloride
Does it have a good UVA protection with 14.5% zinc?
Thank you.
Eva Victoria
10 Nov 2011
It seems to have a nice consistency (silicone based). 14.5% ZnO would be good enough UVA protection if Copperton did not use nano-scale ZnO. It will contribute nicely to UVB protection but will not have a good protection against the longer UVA rays.
Hi Eva,
Could you tell me what you think about this US sunscreen?
Coppertone Kids Pure & Simple Sunscreen Lotion SPF 50
Ingredients:
Active: Octinoxate (7.5%), Octisalate (5%), Zinc Oxide (14.5%)
Other: Water, Propylene Glycol, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Neopentyl Glycol Diheptanoate, Cyclopentasiloxane, Cetyl Peg/Ppg-10/1 Dimethicone, Peg-12 Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Triethoxycaprylylsilane, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Diazolidinyl Urea, Methylparaben, Propylparaben, Sodium Chloride
Does it have a good UVA protection with 14.5% zinc?
Thank you.
lucaasalberto
10 Nov 2011
Thank you very much for answering me. I'll look for a better sunscreen to use on my body then!
I've been using this sunscreen on my face for the past year and I like it quite a lot. It has Tinosorb M and S, OMC, Uvinul T 150, Uvinul A Plus and tio2. The company won't tell me what's the percentage of active ingredients, but here is the ingredients list:
methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, titanium dioxide, hydrated silica, dimethicone/methicone copolymer, aluminum hydroxide, ethylhexyl triazone, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, butylene glycol cocoate, dicaprylyl carbonate, bisabolol, tocopheryl acetate, diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate, acrylates/C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, sodium hydroxide, hydroxyethylcellulose, citrullus vulgaris (watermelon) fruit extract, tribehenin peg-20 esters, methylisothiazolinone, phenoxyethanol, pentaerythrityl tetra-di-t-butyl, hydroxyhydrocinnamate, disodium edta, aqua, aluminum starch octenylsuccinate, ethoxydiglycol, silica, xylitylglucoside, anhydroxylitol, xylitol
They clame it has SPF 50 and PPD 17. Does it look like a good sunscreen? What about UVA protection?
Also, I've read you talk about zinc oxide and Tinosorb M being good for UVA protection. But how does Tinosorb M compare to zinc oxide when this one is micronized? Because you've also said that Tinosorb M is photo-stable as is zinc oxide, right? Is there any advantage in using a sunscreen with zinc oxide(micronized) over Tinosorb M, in terms of UVA protection?
I'm not sure if I understood this correctly, but Tinosorb M and Tinosorb S have big particle sizes. So, will they be absorbed like most chemical filters?
Thank you!
Eva Victoria
11 Nov 2011
This sunscreen looks very nice with all the silicone elastomer! I can imagine it has a very nice semi-matte finish. It looks also very good as an effective UVA protector with photo-stable sunscreens.
Both Tinosorb M and ZnO are photo-stable sunscreens. The major difference is that the effectiveness of Tinosorb M per percent is much greater than that of ZnO. Hence it is possible to use much less active and achieve much higher UVA protection. 5 % Tinosorb M (in a well formulated sunscreen with filters that have synergistic effect) it can give a very high PPD value. It can also contribute easily to achieve the 1/3 ratio of UVB/UVA protection.
ZnO needs in a much higher concentration to achieve moderate PPD value and often combined with OMC that will have a very high UVB rating of the sunscreen and less than 1/3 ratio of UVB/UVA protection.
ZnO is not approved as a sunscreen agent in the EU. And Tinosorb M is not approved in the US.
So most sunscreens from the US contain ZnO and more and moe sunscreens contain Tinosorb M (or Mexoryl XL) along with Tinosorb S in the EU.
Additionally Tinosorb M has a greater protection in higher wavelength than ZnO.
Micronized ZnO protects up to 380 nm and gets less protective between 380-400 nm. Tinosorb M is protective up to 388 nm and has protective ability up to 400 nm.
The only major difference is that Tinosorb M is water dispersible and not so sensitive to lower PH, while ZnO is usually dispersed in a carrier oil and the formulation should be at around PH 7 for stability.
Some people have sensitive reactions to chemical filters while there is no one that would react to ZnO. (It is also approved for treatment of rush and day-care for baby skin).
Hope it could be of some help!

Hi Eva,
Thank you very much for answering me. I'll look for a better sunscreen to use on my body then!
I've been using this sunscreen on my face for the past year and I like it quite a lot. It has Tinosorb M and S, OMC, Uvinul T 150, Uvinul A Plus and tio2. The company won't tell me what's the percentage of active ingredients, but here is the ingredients list:
methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, titanium dioxide, hydrated silica, dimethicone/methicone copolymer, aluminum hydroxide, ethylhexyl triazone, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, butylene glycol cocoate, dicaprylyl carbonate, bisabolol, tocopheryl acetate, diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate, acrylates/C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, sodium hydroxide, hydroxyethylcellulose, citrullus vulgaris (watermelon) fruit extract, tribehenin peg-20 esters, methylisothiazolinone, phenoxyethanol, pentaerythrityl tetra-di-t-butyl, hydroxyhydrocinnamate, disodium edta, aqua, aluminum starch octenylsuccinate, ethoxydiglycol, silica, xylitylglucoside, anhydroxylitol, xylitol
They clame it has SPF 50 and PPD 17. Does it look like a good sunscreen? What about UVA protection?
Also, I've read you talk about zinc oxide and Tinosorb M being good for UVA protection. But how does Tinosorb M compare to zinc oxide when this one is micronized? Because you've also said that Tinosorb M is photo-stable as is zinc oxide, right? Is there any advantage in using a sunscreen with zinc oxide(micronized) over Tinosorb M, in terms of UVA protection?
I'm not sure if I understood this correctly, but Tinosorb M and Tinosorb S have big particle sizes. So, will they be absorbed like most chemical filters?
Thank you!
lucaasalberto
12 Nov 2011
Hi Lucaas,
This sunscreen looks very nice with all the silicone elastomer! I can imagine it has a very nice semi-matte finish. It looks also very good as an effective UVA protector with photo-stable sunscreens.
Both Tinosorb M and ZnO are photo-stable sunscreens. The major difference is that the effectiveness of Tinosorb M per percent is much greater than that of ZnO. Hence it is possible to use much less active and achieve much higher UVA protection. 5 % Tinosorb M (in a well formulated sunscreen with filters that have synergistic effect) it can give a very high PPD value. It can also contribute easily to achieve the 1/3 ratio of UVB/UVA protection.
ZnO needs in a much higher concentration to achieve moderate PPD value and often combined with OMC that will have a very high UVB rating of the sunscreen and less than 1/3 ratio of UVB/UVA protection.
ZnO is not approved as a sunscreen agent in the EU. And Tinosorb M is not approved in the US.
So most sunscreens from the US contain ZnO and more and moe sunscreens contain Tinosorb M (or Mexoryl XL) along with Tinosorb S in the EU.
Additionally Tinosorb M has a greater protection in higher wavelength than ZnO.
Micronized ZnO protects up to 380 nm and gets less protective between 380-400 nm. Tinosorb M is protective up to 388 nm and has protective ability up to 400 nm.
The only major difference is that Tinosorb M is water dispersible and not so sensitive to lower PH, while ZnO is usually dispersed in a carrier oil and the formulation should be at around PH 7 for stability.
Some people have sensitive reactions to chemical filters while there is no one that would react to ZnO. (It is also approved for treatment of rush and day-care for baby skin).
Hope it could be of some help!Hi Eva,
Thank you very much for answering me. I'll look for a better sunscreen to use on my body then!
I've been using this sunscreen on my face for the past year and I like it quite a lot. It has Tinosorb M and S, OMC, Uvinul T 150, Uvinul A Plus and tio2. The company won't tell me what's the percentage of active ingredients, but here is the ingredients list:
methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, titanium dioxide, hydrated silica, dimethicone/methicone copolymer, aluminum hydroxide, ethylhexyl triazone, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, butylene glycol cocoate, dicaprylyl carbonate, bisabolol, tocopheryl acetate, diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate, acrylates/C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, sodium hydroxide, hydroxyethylcellulose, citrullus vulgaris (watermelon) fruit extract, tribehenin peg-20 esters, methylisothiazolinone, phenoxyethanol, pentaerythrityl tetra-di-t-butyl, hydroxyhydrocinnamate, disodium edta, aqua, aluminum starch octenylsuccinate, ethoxydiglycol, silica, xylitylglucoside, anhydroxylitol, xylitol
They clame it has SPF 50 and PPD 17. Does it look like a good sunscreen? What about UVA protection?
Also, I've read you talk about zinc oxide and Tinosorb M being good for UVA protection. But how does Tinosorb M compare to zinc oxide when this one is micronized? Because you've also said that Tinosorb M is photo-stable as is zinc oxide, right? Is there any advantage in using a sunscreen with zinc oxide(micronized) over Tinosorb M, in terms of UVA protection?
I'm not sure if I understood this correctly, but Tinosorb M and Tinosorb S have big particle sizes. So, will they be absorbed like most chemical filters?
Thank you!
Yes, it does have a nice semi-matte finish.

Thank you for explaining the difference between those two uv-filters!
jep
13 Nov 2011
Some people have sensitive reactions to chemical filters while there is no one that would react to ZnO. (It is also approved for treatment of rush and day-care for baby skin).
My skin reacts to zinc oxide! Any sunscreen containing it causes my face to itch like crazy. No visible signs, just an acute itch. My derm was surprised, and had some zinc oxide mixed into a very bland cream to test whether it was the zinc oxide. The first week I was told to just apply the bland cream (without the zinc oxide). No reaction. The next week I was told to apply the cream containing zinc oxide and sure enough, my skin reacted again.
Edited by jep, 13 November 2011 - 07:55 AM.
Eva Victoria
13 Nov 2011
Have you tested coated ZnO as well? It might help against reactions from ZnO.
Some people have sensitive reactions to chemical filters while there is no one that would react to ZnO. (It is also approved for treatment of rush and day-care for baby skin).
My skin reacts to zinc oxide! Any sunscreen containing it causes my face to itch like crazy. No visible signs, just an acute itch. My derm was surprised, and had some zinc oxide mixed into a very bland cream to test whether it was the zinc oxide. The first week I was told to just apply the bland cream (without the zinc oxide). No reaction. The next week I was told to apply the cream containing zinc oxide and sure enough, my skin reacted again.