Hi Vanity Fair,
I will need you to answer some questions before I can help you.
Does the Kelp base contain anything else than Algae Extract? Is it very fluid and will need a thickener or does it have a firm consistency? Does already contain preservatives and if yes which preservative(s) and in which amount?
Do you want to use the Kelp base alone or dilute it with water?
Actives:
L-carnosine: if it is in powder form, dissolve in water. Use between 0.1-0.2%
Coenzyme 10: Is it dissolved or is it in powder form? If not dissolved, you will need to dissolve it in a polar solvent. Use 0.01-0.05%.
niaciamide: can be used up to 5% but I would recommend 0.5-1% to start with. Dissolve in water prior to addition to the serum.
ceramides: add to oil-phase. Can be used in higher concentration, but I would recommend to keep it to 0.5-2%
vitamin E: use Tocepheryl Acetate, it will also contribute to preserve the formula. 0.1-0.5%. Add to oil-phase.
Prepare water-phase by dissolving Carnosine and B3 in 1,5% water (You can use more water if you would like to dilute the Kelp Base). Add Kelp base. (You can also add glycols 3-10%, if you use Glycerine use it in max 2.5% otherwise formula can be sticky.)
Prepare oil-phase by dissolving Q10 in Alkyl Benzoate (or any other polar solvent). Add Ceramides and Vitamin E. You can add any other oils additionally. The higher the amount of oils is in your formula, the more creamy it will get. I would suggest 3-5% oil to achieve a nice fluid and light, refreshing-feeling on skin at application.
You will need an emulsifier to be able to add the oil-phase and achieve a homogenous mixture. As emulsifier you can use Xanthan Gum, Polysorbate-20, Carbomer or Aristoflex AVC or any other Polymer. You will need different concentration depending on which emulsifier you wish to use. Carbomer will also need neutralization.
Polysorbate-20, Aristoflex AVC or any other Polymer can be added to oil-phase. Xanthan Gum added to water-phase. Carbomer must be prepared and neutralized before added to water-phase.
Add oil-phase to water-phase and mix for at least 20 minutes.
Preservatives can be added to water-phase or after the emulsion is formed. If preservative is not water-soluble, you will have to dissolve it in glycols or Polysorbate-20 prior prior to adding it to the water-phase.
You should remember, that a perfect formula does not come out at the first trial (usually). It takes a lot of adjustments and trials and error to make something perfect.
It cost not only a fair amount of raw-material but also time and patience.
Knowledge of different emulsifiers is a must. Each emulsifier will give a different product with different feeling even the rest of the formulation and preparation-technique is the same.
Where do you buy your ingredients from?
I will be able to help you more when I know more about your Kelp base, whether it is preserved and in which amount, whether you will wish to use additional water etc.
E.
Hi Eva,
It's been a while, hope you are doing well.
Saw on the other tread that your sunscreen is getting along nicely, so I am really looking forward to it's launch.
In the meantime, I really would like your help and advice. I purchased some active ingredients to mix it with a seakelp base. However, I am really insecure as to the right ratios. The website that I ordered it from gives very large quantities with respect to the active ingredients, but I remember from your replies to my earlier posts that those quantities will probably be too much.
So please, would you be so kind as to give me the ratios you would use, and also advice as how to dissolve the ingredients and how to mix them, and how to mix everything together.
The kelpbase is 30 ml and the ingredients I would like to add are : L-carnosine, Coenzyme 10, niaciamide, ceramides and possibly some vitamin E oil.
Do you think this can be an efficient combination?
Many, many thanks,
VF