579 replies to this topic

[Eva Victoria]

Hi Spirilla,

Glad you have excellent results with Retin-A, I think what is really important is to minimize irritation when one uses Tretinoin. Too much "anti-aging" might be too much for your skin and it will rule out the good results you are getting with Retin-A.
I would suggest maybe include a simple serum with Vitamin C in the morning. 3-5% concentration would be sufficient. A serum that contain Ascorbic Acid or Ascorbyl Glycoside, preferably with other beneficial anti-oxidants and no perfume/fragrance (like Clinique Even Better Clinical Dark Spot Corrector with Ascorbyl Glycoside).

If you have a special product in mind, it is the best you send me the INCI for that particular product, like Skinbiology.

To be able to help you more accurately, it would be nice to know what you use AM/PM besides Retin-A.

Hi Eva,
first of all, thanks for your time and excellent advice on skin care which are highly appreciated by all of us.
I´ve been using retin a for more than 5 years with excellent results. My skin is tone is very even and my wrinkles has decreased a lot. I´m still using retin a on a daily basis 0.05% but was wondering if I should include some sort of peptides like skinbiology ? I have very fair, dry and sensible skin and it has taken me some time to find the optimal combo of retin a at night and moisturizer in the morning and during the day. I would be very grateful for any suggestion as how to move on from here ?
thanks

[lourdaud]

Hi Eva Victoria,

Once again - thank you for taking your time and for keeping this thread alive. I've just started to read up upon skin care and I've found several helpful advice in this thread.

I'd really appreciate if you have something to suggest for someone with a puffy face. My problem is that no matter how fit I get, I have a really hard time getting rid of the puffiness in my face. My guess is that this puffiness is most of all due to excess water retention, as cutting down on carbs and sodium is what helps me the most. But I think it also may result from saginess, excessive skin tissue and/or fat deposits, as I was quite chubby as a child and today my skin is very elastic (I'm in my twenties).

Do you have any suggestions for agents that would address this problem? I've read that thiomucase and shark liver oil may help but these substances are hard to find and I'm concerned of their potential effects over time..

Thanks,
lourdaud

[Eva Victoria]

Hi lourdaud,

You are in your twenties and your is very elastic as you write. It is very much natural to have around, full face. The fat-depots are naturally full and one should not do anything about them. They will be depleted soon enough (by the time most people reach 35-40) with a visibly hollower and thinner face. Which makes people look older.
Excessive dieting will ensure that this process will be much faster. Depleted fat-depots are impossible to replenish. (Only fillers will work.)

Enjoy your youth and full-face! Others would kill for having it back!

Hi Eva Victoria,

Once again - thank you for taking your time and for keeping this thread alive. I've just started to read up upon skin care and I've found several helpful advice in this thread.

I'd really appreciate if you have something to suggest for someone with a puffy face. My problem is that no matter how fit I get, I have a really hard time getting rid of the puffiness in my face. My guess is that this puffiness is most of all due to excess water retention, as cutting down on carbs and sodium is what helps me the most. But I think it also may result from saginess, excessive skin tissue and/or fat deposits, as I was quite chubby as a child and today my skin is very elastic (I'm in my twenties).

Do you have any suggestions for agents that would address this problem? I've read that thiomucase and shark liver oil may help but these substances are hard to find and I'm concerned of their potential effects over time..

Thanks,
lourdaud

[spirilla01]

Hi Eva,
thanks so much for your sound advice, makes sense. AM i just plash water on my skin followed by nivea aqua sensation
day cream which works great for hydration and flakies. If I am outside I usually wear boots Soltan face 50+ suncream.
PM i cleanse with Cetaphil gentle skin cleanser, wait for at least 30 minutes followed by Retin a 0.05% or 0.025% depending on how my skin feels. This has been my routine for the last 5 years and I have excellent results.
I was thinking of including copper peptides from Skinbiology, but don´t really know where to start. My skin is quite sensitive , but I´ve read that copper peptides should work perfect with retin a.
Thanks a lot again Eva, really appreciated

[Eva Victoria]

Hi Spirilla,

Maybe inclusion of a light serum of Vitamin C (and other second-generation anti-oxidants) in the morning can be a good investment.
Nivea Aqua Sensation day cream has far too much fragrance and can be very irritating to your Retin-A treated skin. I would recommend to switch to a fragrance-free mild moisturizer from either Avene or LRP.

Hi Eva,
thanks so much for your sound advice, makes sense. AM i just plash water on my skin followed by nivea aqua sensation
day cream which works great for hydration and flakies. If I am outside I usually wear boots Soltan face 50+ suncream.
PM i cleanse with Cetaphil gentle skin cleanser, wait for at least 30 minutes followed by Retin a 0.05% or 0.025% depending on how my skin feels. This has been my routine for the last 5 years and I have excellent results.
I was thinking of including copper peptides from Skinbiology, but don´t really know where to start. My skin is quite sensitive , but I´ve read that copper peptides should work perfect with retin a.
Thanks a lot again Eva, really appreciated

[JBForrester]

Hi Eva,

Thank you so much for replying to all of mine and everyone's posts - simply brilliant. I do have another a question...

I've heard recently that using copper peptides for too long of a time can do more damage than good. Does that go for other types of peptides, too? Here is an article that talks about the peptides I have questions about: http://skincarerx.com/it:Peptide.html

Quote:

• Peptides | Anti-aging miracle worker

• The building blocks of proteins, peptides have become an essential ingredient in anti-aging skin care. Peptides are a string of amino acids that are held together by bonds of nitrogen and carbon. Short chain peptides are able to penetrate the epidermis and send signals to cells, informing them how to function.
  
  There are many different types of peptides, which have various effects on the cellular function of the skin. Considered by many to be one of the most effective treatments in repairing damaged and aging skin, the most important thing to remember when using a peptide formula is diligence.
  
  Results from peptides will generally not be visible for anywhere from 4 to 12 weeks. It can be discouraging to not see changes before that time, but routine use will deliver results. Once you begin to notice changes in your skin, it is important to remain diligent in the use of peptide products. Once you discontinue using the products, the results will eventually fade.
  
  With so many options when it comes to peptides in skin care, here are some of the most effective ones to pay attention to.
  
  Collagen/Elastin Building Peptides Collagen and Elastin are essential in keeping the elasticity and firmness of skin in tact. As skin ages, the production of both these slows down, which leads to the formation of wrinkles and sagging skin. The inclusion of the following ingredients in anti-aging products is pivotal for rebuilding diminished elasticity and firmness for more youthful looking skin.
  
  Dermaxyl (Palmitoyl Oligopeptide) This ingredient stimulates the production of Hyaluronic Acid, in addition to elastin and collagen.
  
  Matrixyl (Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4) Consisting of five amino acids linked together, this peptide increases the synthesis of elastin, collagen, and glucosamnoglycans. It has been shown to decrease skin roughness by 13%, reduce wrinkle volume by 36%, and decrease wrinkle depth by 27% after four months of twice daily applications on the face and neck.
  
  Matrixyl 3000 (Palmitoyl Oligopeptide & Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7) Unlike the “classic” Matrixyl, this is a combination of two peptides, palmitoyl oligopeptide and palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7. These work synergistically to increase skin’s permeability and decrease inflammation. It also reduces wrinkle depth and roughness of the skin.
  
  Idealift (Lipodipeptide) This ingredient is a form of lipodipeptide which has been proven to increase the quantity of elastin in the cells by more than 94%.
  
  Botox Alternative/ Wrinkle Freezing Preventing the contraction ability of muscles has been found to be effective in reducing and prevent wrinkles. One popular way to do this is through Botox injections. Alternatives to Botox are available, and are very effective with their “wrinkle-freezing” abilities. Listed below are peptides to look for in products claiming to be Botox alternatives.
  
  Argireline (Acetyl Hexapeptide-8) Formed of six amino acids, this peptide relaxes facial muscles that cause wrinkles through neurotransmitters that keep the signal protein catecholamine from triggering muscle contraction. Unlike Botox, this peptide does not cause paralysis of the muscles, it allows them to relax, still allowing for normal facial movement.
  
  Snap-8 (Acetyl Glutamyl Octapeptide-3) An elongated version of Argireline, this is considered to be 30% more effective and is a neuropeptide that reduces the depth of wrinkles.
  
  Syn-ake (Dipeptide Diaminobutyroyl Benzylamide Diacetate) A synthetic tripeptide works as a neuromuscular-blocking compound to help reduce the dept of wrinkles and increase skin smoothness with the active ingredient Waglerin 1, which is similar to a compound found in the Asian Temple Snake’s venom that restricts muscle movement.
  
  Miscellaneous Peptides Peptides can be used to effectively treat other skin care concerns such as dark under eye circles, hyperpigmentation, and inflammation.
  
  Regu-Age (Hydrolyzed Rice Bran Protein, Oxido Reductases, Glycine Soja (Soybean) Protein) This is a soy and rice based peptide that reduces the puffiness and dark circles under the eyes by improving microcirculation and increasing fibroblasts proliferation.
  
  Eyeliss (Hesperidin methyl Chalcone – Steareth-20 – Dipeptide-2 – Palmiotyl Tetrapeptide-3) Improves circulation under the eyes by decreasing capillary permeability. It also improves firmness and elasticity of the skin.
  
  Rigin (Peptide Pal-GQPR) Four synthesized amino acids reduce inflammation by suppressing the chemical messengers which trigger it.
  
  Melanostatin (Aqua-Dextran-Nonapeptide-1) This is a skin lightening peptide which works by stopping the signals that relay the need for melanin to be produced.

Lastly, do you know if rosehip oil serum and sea algae serum is a good product to use on the skin? I'm currently using evanhealy's products, specifically the "rose" rosehip oil serum rather than the "blue".
http://www.evanhealy.com/

Thank you very much!

Edited by JBForrester, 11 January 2013 - 08:33 PM.

[Eva Victoria]

Hi JB Forrester,

Peptides are said to be really effective. But again, they are cosmetic ingredients. Their effectiveness are influenced by the concentration used and the formula. (F. ex. Argireline is recommended to use in 10% concentration by its producer (Lipotec), I have never seen or heard of any company that uses it in such high concentration. Usually it is used in 0.5-1% in cosmetic products. )make a search on patents of cosmetic products and you will find formulas of well known products with the clear concentration of the ingredients.)
There is another question that arises about peptides. Are they able to be delivered to their target e.g. skin cells? Most people underestimate the effectiveness of the skin-barrier. Personally, I do use most of these peptides on your list in my products, but in my personal skin care there is only one that has made it. Biopeptide (INCI: Palmitoyl Oligopeptide) , produced by Sederma). Protects collagen fibers, smoothing of the skin, density. A messenger peptide for collagen renewal that features "retinoic acid-like" activity without being irritant. Stimulates collagen (+350%) and glycosaminoglycan (+146%) production. Reinforces/ restructures the epidermis. Diminishes wrinkles, has cell-regenerating properties from UVR damage and protects against UVR (mainly UVB).

Is it this serum you are referring to?
http://www.evanhealy...oducts/show/13#
It has far too high amount of essential oils (or water of them) which is irritating for the skin. I would rather go for a product that is completely fragrance-free. Algae is an excellent choice for all skin. It has a high amount of essential minerals and vitamins that nourish the skin. Additionally they bind water effectively, hence can provide long-lasting hydration for the skin. They are also anti-inflammatory and good for acne-prone skin, eczema and other skin problems.

Hope it could be of some help
E.

Hi Eva,

Thank you so much for replying to all of mine and everyone's posts - simply brilliant. I do have another a question...

I've heard recently that using copper peptides for too long of a time can do more damage than good. Does that go for other types of peptides, too? Here is an article that talks about the peptides I have questions about: http://skincarerx.com/it:Peptide.html

Quote:

• Peptides | Anti-aging miracle worker

• The building blocks of proteins, peptides have become an essential ingredient in anti-aging skin care. Peptides are a string of amino acids that are held together by bonds of nitrogen and carbon. Short chain peptides are able to penetrate the epidermis and send signals to cells, informing them how to function.
  
  There are many different types of peptides, which have various effects on the cellular function of the skin. Considered by many to be one of the most effective treatments in repairing damaged and aging skin, the most important thing to remember when using a peptide formula is diligence.
  
  Results from peptides will generally not be visible for anywhere from 4 to 12 weeks. It can be discouraging to not see changes before that time, but routine use will deliver results. Once you begin to notice changes in your skin, it is important to remain diligent in the use of peptide products. Once you discontinue using the products, the results will eventually fade.
  
  With so many options when it comes to peptides in skin care, here are some of the most effective ones to pay attention to.
  
  Collagen/Elastin Building Peptides Collagen and Elastin are essential in keeping the elasticity and firmness of skin in tact. As skin ages, the production of both these slows down, which leads to the formation of wrinkles and sagging skin. The inclusion of the following ingredients in anti-aging products is pivotal for rebuilding diminished elasticity and firmness for more youthful looking skin.
  
  Dermaxyl (Palmitoyl Oligopeptide) This ingredient stimulates the production of Hyaluronic Acid, in addition to elastin and collagen.
  
  Matrixyl (Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4) Consisting of five amino acids linked together, this peptide increases the synthesis of elastin, collagen, and glucosamnoglycans. It has been shown to decrease skin roughness by 13%, reduce wrinkle volume by 36%, and decrease wrinkle depth by 27% after four months of twice daily applications on the face and neck.
  
  Matrixyl 3000 (Palmitoyl Oligopeptide & Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7) Unlike the “classic” Matrixyl, this is a combination of two peptides, palmitoyl oligopeptide and palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7. These work synergistically to increase skin’s permeability and decrease inflammation. It also reduces wrinkle depth and roughness of the skin.
  
  Idealift (Lipodipeptide) This ingredient is a form of lipodipeptide which has been proven to increase the quantity of elastin in the cells by more than 94%.
  
  Botox Alternative/ Wrinkle Freezing Preventing the contraction ability of muscles has been found to be effective in reducing and prevent wrinkles. One popular way to do this is through Botox injections. Alternatives to Botox are available, and are very effective with their “wrinkle-freezing” abilities. Listed below are peptides to look for in products claiming to be Botox alternatives.
  
  Argireline (Acetyl Hexapeptide-8) Formed of six amino acids, this peptide relaxes facial muscles that cause wrinkles through neurotransmitters that keep the signal protein catecholamine from triggering muscle contraction. Unlike Botox, this peptide does not cause paralysis of the muscles, it allows them to relax, still allowing for normal facial movement.
  
  Snap-8 (Acetyl Glutamyl Octapeptide-3) An elongated version of Argireline, this is considered to be 30% more effective and is a neuropeptide that reduces the depth of wrinkles.
  
  Syn-ake (Dipeptide Diaminobutyroyl Benzylamide Diacetate) A synthetic tripeptide works as a neuromuscular-blocking compound to help reduce the dept of wrinkles and increase skin smoothness with the active ingredient Waglerin 1, which is similar to a compound found in the Asian Temple Snake’s venom that restricts muscle movement.
  
  Miscellaneous Peptides Peptides can be used to effectively treat other skin care concerns such as dark under eye circles, hyperpigmentation, and inflammation.
  
  Regu-Age (Hydrolyzed Rice Bran Protein, Oxido Reductases, Glycine Soja (Soybean) Protein) This is a soy and rice based peptide that reduces the puffiness and dark circles under the eyes by improving microcirculation and increasing fibroblasts proliferation.
  
  Eyeliss (Hesperidin methyl Chalcone – Steareth-20 – Dipeptide-2 – Palmiotyl Tetrapeptide-3) Improves circulation under the eyes by decreasing capillary permeability. It also improves firmness and elasticity of the skin.
  
  Rigin (Peptide Pal-GQPR) Four synthesized amino acids reduce inflammation by suppressing the chemical messengers which trigger it.
  
  Melanostatin (Aqua-Dextran-Nonapeptide-1) This is a skin lightening peptide which works by stopping the signals that relay the need for melanin to be produced.

Lastly, do you know if rosehip oil serum and sea algae serum is a good product to use on the skin? I'm currently using evanhealy's products, specifically the "rose" rosehip oil serum rather than the "blue".
http://www.evanhealy.com/

Thank you very much!

[Vanity Fair]

Hi Eva,

It's been a while, hope you are doing well.
Saw on the other tread that your sunscreen is getting along nicely, so I am really looking forward to it's launch.

In the meantime, I really would like your help and advice. I purchased some active ingredients to mix it with a seakelp base. However, I am really insecure as to the right ratios. The website that I ordered it from gives very large quantities with respect to the active ingredients, but I remember from your replies to my earlier posts that those quantities will probably be too much.
So please, would you be so kind as to give me the ratios you would use, and also advice as how to dissolve the ingredients and how to mix them, and how to mix everything together.
The kelpbase is 30 ml and the ingredients I would like to add are : L-carnosine, Coenzyme 10, niaciamide, ceramides and possibly some vitamin E oil.
Do you think this can be an efficient combination?

Many, many thanks,
VF

[Eva Victoria]

Hi Vanity Fair,

I will need you to answer some questions before I can help you.
Does the Kelp base contain anything else than Algae Extract? Is it very fluid and will need a thickener or does it have a firm consistency? Does already contain preservatives and if yes which preservative(s) and in which amount?
Do you want to use the Kelp base alone or dilute it with water?

Actives:
L-carnosine: if it is in powder form, dissolve in water. Use between 0.1-0.2%
Coenzyme 10: Is it dissolved or is it in powder form? If not dissolved, you will need to dissolve it in a polar solvent. Use 0.01-0.05%.
niaciamide: can be used up to 5% but I would recommend 0.5-1% to start with. Dissolve in water prior to addition to the serum.
ceramides: add to oil-phase. Can be used in higher concentration, but I would recommend to keep it to 0.5-2%
vitamin E: use Tocepheryl Acetate, it will also contribute to preserve the formula. 0.1-0.5%. Add to oil-phase.

Prepare water-phase by dissolving Carnosine and B3 in 1,5% water (You can use more water if you would like to dilute the Kelp Base). Add Kelp base. (You can also add glycols 3-10%, if you use Glycerine use it in max 2.5% otherwise formula can be sticky.)

Prepare oil-phase by dissolving Q10 in Alkyl Benzoate (or any other polar solvent). Add Ceramides and Vitamin E. You can add any other oils additionally. The higher the amount of oils is in your formula, the more creamy it will get. I would suggest 3-5% oil to achieve a nice fluid and light, refreshing-feeling on skin at application.

You will need an emulsifier to be able to add the oil-phase and achieve a homogenous mixture. As emulsifier you can use Xanthan Gum, Polysorbate-20, Carbomer or Aristoflex AVC or any other Polymer. You will need different concentration depending on which emulsifier you wish to use. Carbomer will also need neutralization.
Polysorbate-20, Aristoflex AVC or any other Polymer can be added to oil-phase. Xanthan Gum added to water-phase. Carbomer must be prepared and neutralized before added to water-phase.

Add oil-phase to water-phase and mix for at least 20 minutes.
Preservatives can be added to water-phase or after the emulsion is formed. If preservative is not water-soluble, you will have to dissolve it in glycols or Polysorbate-20 prior prior to adding it to the water-phase.

You should remember, that a perfect formula does not come out at the first trial (usually). It takes a lot of adjustments and trials and error to make something perfect.
It cost not only a fair amount of raw-material but also time and patience.
Knowledge of different emulsifiers is a must. Each emulsifier will give a different product with different feeling even the rest of the formulation and preparation-technique is the same.

Where do you buy your ingredients from?

I will be able to help you more when I know more about your Kelp base, whether it is preserved and in which amount, whether you will wish to use additional water etc.

E.

Hi Eva,

It's been a while, hope you are doing well.
Saw on the other tread that your sunscreen is getting along nicely, so I am really looking forward to it's launch.

In the meantime, I really would like your help and advice. I purchased some active ingredients to mix it with a seakelp base. However, I am really insecure as to the right ratios. The website that I ordered it from gives very large quantities with respect to the active ingredients, but I remember from your replies to my earlier posts that those quantities will probably be too much.
So please, would you be so kind as to give me the ratios you would use, and also advice as how to dissolve the ingredients and how to mix them, and how to mix everything together.
The kelpbase is 30 ml and the ingredients I would like to add are : L-carnosine, Coenzyme 10, niaciamide, ceramides and possibly some vitamin E oil.
Do you think this can be an efficient combination?

Many, many thanks,
VF

[Vanity Fair]

Eva,

thank you so much for replying so swiftly.

I don't think the kelpbase contains anything else, on the jar it says:
lactobacillus/kelp ferment exract, Laminaria japonica extract, arthrosipira extract ( don't know if that last name is correct as letters are very small)
So no preservatives. It has a gel like consistency, a bit like jellypudding, if you know what I mean, so I don't think it needs thickener.
I want to keep it as it is and not dilute with water.
I did get the quantity wrong though, it is 60 ml/2 fl.oz

The l-carnosine is in powder form, so is the coenzyme 10,the niacinamide and the ceramids.the vitamin e is oil.

you talk about B3, what do you mean by that?
and what is a polar solvent?

I am beginning to realize that it may not be as simple as some people would like you to believe,
am getting a bit second thoughts.

Since some ingredients are aqua soluble, the niacinamide and the l-carnosine, do you think it is a better idea to try and mix them with the kelp and nothing else?
How long will this keep if I don't add preservative or do I definitely need to add one?

And maybe it's better to mix the coenzyme 10 and the ceramids with the vitamin e oil and rosehip oil as a separate product, or am I talking nonsense and that won't work?
or do I always need to dissolve the coenzyme 10 in a polar solvent first and then add to oil?
I purchased all the ingredients from the website Active formulas but the information they give you is very limited, for example they just tell you that you can dissolve the coenzyme 10 in a little oil and the add it to the kelp. according to them I can more or less chuck everything in, which sounds a bit strange to me.

once again, thank you very much for your time

and do I always need a preservative, even in the oil mix?

[Eva Victoria]

Eva,

thank you so much for replying so swiftly.

I don't think the kelpbase contains anything else, on the jar it says:
lactobacillus/kelp ferment exract, Laminaria japonica extract, arthrosipira extract ( don't know if that last name is correct as letters are very small)
So no preservatives. It has a gel like consistency, a bit like jellypudding, if you know what I mean, so I don't think it needs thickener.
I want to keep it as it is and not dilute with water.
I did get the quantity wrong though, it is 60 ml/2 fl.oz

You will need to add preservative to keep the formula usable for longer time.
I would also dilute the kelp, you might end up with a too thick, jelly like end-product that will be difficult to use. It might need 10-30% water if you wish to make a serum; for higher viscosity emulsions, it might not be necessary to dilute it. Difficult to say without actually see the kelp extract.

The l-carnosine is in powder form, so is the coenzyme 10,the niacinamide and the ceramids.the vitamin e is oil.

you talk about B3, what do you mean by that?

Vit. B3 is niacinamide.

and what is a polar solvent?

Oils can be grouped into polar and non-polar. They not only have the ability to dissolve oil-soluble ingredients (like UV filters) but can also contribute to emulsion stability. For ex. Octyldodecanol, Alkyl Benzoate, Isopropyl Myristate are polar, Mineral Oil is non-polar.

I am beginning to realize that it may not be as simple as some people would like you to believe,
am getting a bit second thoughts.

If it was so easy, cosmetic chemists would be out of work!

Since some ingredients are aqua soluble, the niacinamide and the l-carnosine, do you think it is a better idea to try and mix them with the kelp and nothing else?

No. Dissolve them in demineralized water. (This you can easily get hold of from a pharmacy.)

How long will this keep if I don't add preservative or do I definitely need to add one?

Absolutely. You will risk a bacterial contamination otherwise. Bacteria thrives in water.

And maybe it's better to mix the coenzyme 10 and the ceramids with the vitamin e oil and rosehip oil as a separate product, or am I talking nonsense and that won't work?

No, but you will need to dissolve Q10, rose-hip oil will not dissolve it and it will not be available for the skin.

or do I always need to dissolve the coenzyme 10 in a polar solvent first and then add to oil?

Yes. This is correct.

I purchased all the ingredients from the website Active formulas but the information they give you is very limited, for example they just tell you that you can dissolve the coenzyme 10 in a little oil and the add it to the kelp. according to them I can more or less chuck everything in, which sounds a bit strange to me.

once again, thank you very much for your time

and do I always need a preservative, even in the oil mix?

Esters will not have any bacterial growth, natural oils (like rose hip oil, but not mineral oil) are much more attractive for bacteria. The best is to add preservative to both phases. Addition of emulsifier will give a stable emulsion where the actives can be delivered to the skin.

I would recommend you to make a formula and make a 10 ml version so you will not waste a lot of your precious ingredients. Then you can adjust the formula, make another batch of 10 ml and so forth till you are satisfied and have the final formulation that you will settle for.

One more practical advise, remember that good manufacturing practice is a key to produce cosmetics that can last and will not threaten your health. Very clean environment, preferably sterile containers/beakers, mixing devices are very important. Wearing gloves, mask, lab-coat, goggles are a must. Preservatives should not be used for making-up for bad manufacturing processes.

And remember to have fun! It is after all a very creative and fun time-spending activity!
Good luck!

PS: When you have made your formula, you can mail it to me in a private massage if you would like me to look over it and give you some feedback.

Edited by Eva Victoria, 17 January 2013 - 08:54 PM.

[Andey]

Hi Eva,
Thank you for insider look to skin care industry )

Can you suggest something for simple but effective skin care for man ?
I am 35 yo, live in moderate sun conditions (Eastern Europe, Ukraine), and such for some all in one, or may be 2, max 3 product that can form my skincare regimen.

Now I am using Cerave Moisturer with 30 SPF http://www.cvs.com/s...AM?skuId=808211 every morning after pool session (I am get used to swim at morning).
Not really happy with Cerave because of it little bit strange smell directly after apply, it also does not lasts long - only about 4 hours. On the other hand I like Cerave dosing mechanism, very relaible in comparison with jars.
I also have tried Juvess cream - not sure about its eficiency because I bought only one jar and didnt notice anything major after it.

Can you suggest some effective but light moisturer/serum with good SPF ?
May be it worth to add something before going to sleep ? (morning and evening are my only chances to get closer to the mirror ))

[Eva Victoria]

Hi Andey,

I would recommend considering a vitamin C serum or a good blend of anti-oxidant serum for the morning under your sunscreen. Cerave Moisturer 30 SPF should have higher amount of ZnO but otherwise it seems to be a decent product with some anti-oxidants. It is a good choice for the winter/early spring as a daily sunscreen/moisturizer.

At night it might be a good idea to have a lighter moisturizer with anti-oxidants. Cicaplast from LRP can be a relatively good choice. It has an elegant finish on the skin, contains Hyaluronic Acid and Zinc Gluconate, Manganese Gluconate and Copper Gluconate additionally to Madecassoside. This will nourish your skin. Zinc Gluconate, Manganese Gluconate and Copper Gluconate are strong anti-oxidants and are essential elements for well functioning healthy skin. They also play a key role in collagen, fibroblast production and promotes epithalization of the skin and cell dividion, growth and renewal of cells.Has anti-bacterial and anti-acne properties. Effectively fights skin aging by protecting all proteins from glycation, especially those of the dermis. Proteins remain functional longer for a stronger consequently skin is more supple and even toned.
The product is fragrance free and comes in a practical tube with a tottle dispenser. It is also relatively lower priced compared to LRP products and products that will contain so many efficient actives. Otherwise it is a very pleasant silicone gel that settles into a flattering silky finish after application. It is also hydrating.

For day time you can also use Mac Studio Moisture SPF 15 with 3.5% OMC and 6.7% ZnO and a good combination of anti-oxidants. You can use this moisturizer alone even without a serum.

Mac Studio Moisture SPF 15
Ingredients: Active: Zinc Oxide (6.7%), Octinoxate (3.5%), Other: Water, Dimethicone, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Butylene Glycol, Silica, Isononyl Isononanoate, Glycerin, Tocopheryl Acetate, Cholesterol, Astrocaryum Murumuru Butter, Caffeine, Sodium Rna, Sodium Hyaluronate, Phytosphingosine, Barley Extract, Chinese Mushroom Extract, Thermus Thermophillus Ferment, Polygonum Cuspidatum Root (Chinese Root) Extract/Saccharomyces Lysate Extract, Yeast Extract, Wheat Germ Extract, Sucrose, Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Polysorbate 20, Polysorbate 80, Squalane, Glyceryl Stearate, Peg-100 Stearate, Steareth-21, PVP, Sodium Citrate, Citric Acid, Disteardimonium Hectorite, Cetyl Esters, Hexylene Glycol, Polyethylene, Polyhydroxystearic Acid, Acrylamide/Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate Copolymer, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Isohexadecane, Caprylyl Glycol, Triethoxycaprylylsilane, Linoleic Acid, Disodium Edta, Propylene Glycol Dicaprate, Fragrance, BHT, Phenoxyethanol, Chlorphenesin


LRP Cicaplast:
Aqua / Water
Glycerin
Cyclopentasiloxane
Cyclohexasiloxane
Dimethicone
C30-45 Alkyl Dimethicone
Sodium Citrate
PEG/PPG-18/18 Dimethicone
Panthenol
Zinc Gluconate
Madecassoside
Dimethiconol
Manganese Gluconate
Sodium Hyaluronate
Disodium Edta
Copper Gluconate
Citric Acid
Polysorbate 20
Sodium Benzoate

Hi Eva,
Thank you for insider look to skin care industry )

Can you suggest something for simple but effective skin care for man ?
I am 35 yo, live in moderate sun conditions (Eastern Europe, Ukraine), and such for some all in one, or may be 2, max 3 product that can form my skincare regimen.

Now I am using Cerave Moisturer with 30 SPF http://www.cvs.com/s...AM?skuId=808211 every morning after pool session (I am get used to swim at morning).
Not really happy with Cerave because of it little bit strange smell directly after apply, it also does not lasts long - only about 4 hours. On the other hand I like Cerave dosing mechanism, very relaible in comparison with jars.
I also have tried Juvess cream - not sure about its eficiency because I bought only one jar and didnt notice anything major after it.

Can you suggest some effective but light moisturer/serum with good SPF ?
May be it worth to add something before going to sleep ? (morning and evening are my only chances to get closer to the mirror ))

[Andey]

Hi Andey,

I would recommend considering a vitamin C serum or a good blend of anti-oxidant serum for the morning under your sunscreen. Cerave Moisturer 30 SPF should have higher amount of ZnO but otherwise it seems to be a decent product with some anti-oxidants. It is a good choice for the winter/early spring as a daily sunscreen/moisturizer.

At night it might be a good idea to have a lighter moisturizer with anti-oxidants. Cicaplast from LRP can be a relatively good choice. It has an elegant finish on the skin, contains Hyaluronic Acid and Zinc Gluconate, Manganese Gluconate and Copper Gluconate additionally to Madecassoside. This will nourish your skin. Zinc Gluconate, Manganese Gluconate and Copper Gluconate are strong anti-oxidants and are essential elements for well functioning healthy skin. They also play a key role in collagen, fibroblast production and promotes epithalization of the skin and cell dividion, growth and renewal of cells.Has anti-bacterial and anti-acne properties. Effectively fights skin aging by protecting all proteins from glycation, especially those of the dermis. Proteins remain functional longer for a stronger consequently skin is more supple and even toned.
The product is fragrance free and comes in a practical tube with a tottle dispenser. It is also relatively lower priced compared to LRP products and products that will contain so many efficient actives. Otherwise it is a very pleasant silicone gel that settles into a flattering silky finish after application. It is also hydrating.

For day time you can also use Mac Studio Moisture SPF 15 with 3.5% OMC and 6.7% ZnO and a good combination of anti-oxidants. You can use this moisturizer alone even without a serum.

Thanky very much for such comprehensive answer )
I will look and buy products you recommend. As for vitamin C serum - is it needed to prepare it DIY (may be you can recommend ready to mix kit for it) or there are some commercial products exists on the market ?
Is previously mentioned Clinique Even Better serum belongs to this kind ?

P.S. I googled this DIY kit. http://www.lotioncra...c-acid-kit.html
Is it good ?

Thanks in advance )

Edited by Andey, 18 January 2013 - 07:34 PM.

[Eva Victoria]

Hi Andey,

I have looked at the formula recommended on the Lotioncrafter's site. http://www.lotioncra...erulic_Acid.pdf
It has far too high amount of Ethoxydiglycol (20%), I would recommend 1%. I would also start with 3-5% Ascorbic Acid and increase the amount to 10% when the skin has gotten accustomed to it.
It is difficult to formulate with Ferulic Acid and if you wish, it can be eliminated from the formula. It is a good anti-oxidant. If you wish to replace Ferulic Acid or add more anti-oxidants to the formula, keep in mind that this formula has a low PH, so the actives added must be possible to use at a lower PH (like 3.5-4). You can add Algae (2-5%, even 10%) to this formula also. It will give a nicer consistency, hydration and it will lower the irritation potential of Ascorbic Acid.
This is a lower cost formula compared to Clinique Even Better. Even Better is a silicone-based elegant formula with stabilized Ascorbic Acid (Ascorbyl Glucoside, approx. 2%) and also contains some very good anti-oxidants.
The Lotion Crafter formula is also lighter and will absorb into the skin instantly. Both products are enough to be used in the morning.

The Lotion Crafter formula can be prepared in a larger quantity and poured into suitable containers (even pipette glass, kept in the refrigerator) adding Ascorbic Acid just before usage. You can also use mineral water in this formula making it even better for your skin.

Attach the revised formula of the Lotion Crafter. It does not allow me to upload Excel files but if you copy it into Excel and set up the formula (for Total and water, then when you wish to add other ingredients or modify the existing ones it will give you the correct amount for the water needed.)
Many of these ingredients can be obtained from a well-stocked pharmacy. Phenonip can be replaced by Paraben-free preservative mixtures like Phenoxyethanol, Benzoic Acid, Dehydroacetic Acid; OR Benzyl Alcohol, Sodium Benzoate, Potassium Sorbate; OR Sodium Benzoate, Potassium Sorbate. Use 1-1.5% of one of these mixtures.

It is valid here as well, that the perfect formula will be achieved through trials and errors. It takes time and effort (not to mention the ingredients) but it is possible to achieve the product you yourself will find the most pleasing.

Good luck with the formula! And enjoy making it!
E.

Hi Andey,

I would recommend considering a vitamin C serum or a good blend of anti-oxidant serum for the morning under your sunscreen. Cerave Moisturer 30 SPF should have higher amount of ZnO but otherwise it seems to be a decent product with some anti-oxidants. It is a good choice for the winter/early spring as a daily sunscreen/moisturizer.

At night it might be a good idea to have a lighter moisturizer with anti-oxidants. Cicaplast from LRP can be a relatively good choice. It has an elegant finish on the skin, contains Hyaluronic Acid and Zinc Gluconate, Manganese Gluconate and Copper Gluconate additionally to Madecassoside. This will nourish your skin. Zinc Gluconate, Manganese Gluconate and Copper Gluconate are strong anti-oxidants and are essential elements for well functioning healthy skin. They also play a key role in collagen, fibroblast production and promotes epithalization of the skin and cell dividion, growth and renewal of cells.Has anti-bacterial and anti-acne properties. Effectively fights skin aging by protecting all proteins from glycation, especially those of the dermis. Proteins remain functional longer for a stronger consequently skin is more supple and even toned.
The product is fragrance free and comes in a practical tube with a tottle dispenser. It is also relatively lower priced compared to LRP products and products that will contain so many efficient actives. Otherwise it is a very pleasant silicone gel that settles into a flattering silky finish after application. It is also hydrating.

For day time you can also use Mac Studio Moisture SPF 15 with 3.5% OMC and 6.7% ZnO and a good combination of anti-oxidants. You can use this moisturizer alone even without a serum.

Thanky very much for such comprehensive answer )
I will look and buy products you recommend. As for vitamin C serum - is it needed to prepare it DIY (may be you can recommend ready to mix kit for it) or there are some commercial products exists on the market ?
Is previously mentioned Clinique Even Better serum belongs to this kind ?

P.S. I googled this DIY kit. http://www.lotioncra...c-acid-kit.html
Is it good ?

Thanks in advance )

Attached Files

•  Lotion Crafter's Vitamin C Serum revised.pdf   11.76KB   14 downloads

[Andey]

Hi Andey,

I have looked at the formula recommended on the Lotioncrafter's site. http://www.lotioncra...erulic_Acid.pdf
It has far too high amount of Ethoxydiglycol (20%), I would recommend 1%. I would also start with 3-5% Ascorbic Acid and increase the amount to 10% when the skin has gotten accustomed to it.
It is difficult to formulate with Ferulic Acid and if you wish, it can be eliminated from the formula. It is a good anti-oxidant. If you wish to replace Ferulic Acid or add more anti-oxidants to the formula, keep in mind that this formula has a low PH, so the actives added must be possible to use at a lower PH (like 3.5-4). You can add Algae (2-5%, even 10%) to this formula also. It will give a nicer consistency, hydration and it will lower the irritation potential of Ascorbic Acid.
This is a lower cost formula compared to Clinique Even Better. Even Better is a silicone-based elegant formula with stabilized Ascorbic Acid (Ascorbyl Glucoside, approx. 2%) and also contains some very good anti-oxidants.
The Lotion Crafter formula is also lighter and will absorb into the skin instantly. Both products are enough to be used in the morning.

The Lotion Crafter formula can be prepared in a larger quantity and poured into suitable containers (even pipette glass, kept in the refrigerator) adding Ascorbic Acid just before usage. You can also use mineral water in this formula making it even better for your skin.

Attach the revised formula of the Lotion Crafter. It does not allow me to upload Excel files but if you copy it into Excel and set up the formula (for Total and water, then when you wish to add other ingredients or modify the existing ones it will give you the correct amount for the water needed.)
Many of these ingredients can be obtained from a well-stocked pharmacy. Phenonip can be replaced by Paraben-free preservative mixtures like Phenoxyethanol, Benzoic Acid, Dehydroacetic Acid; OR Benzyl Alcohol, Sodium Benzoate, Potassium Sorbate; OR Sodium Benzoate, Potassium Sorbate. Use 1-1.5% of one of these mixtures.

It is valid here as well, that the perfect formula will be achieved through trials and errors. It takes time and effort (not to mention the ingredients) but it is possible to achieve the product you yourself will find the most pleasing.

Good luck with the formula! And enjoy making it!
E.

Hi Andey,

I would recommend considering a vitamin C serum or a good blend of anti-oxidant serum for the morning under your sunscreen. Cerave Moisturer 30 SPF should have higher amount of ZnO but otherwise it seems to be a decent product with some anti-oxidants. It is a good choice for the winter/early spring as a daily sunscreen/moisturizer.

At night it might be a good idea to have a lighter moisturizer with anti-oxidants. Cicaplast from LRP can be a relatively good choice. It has an elegant finish on the skin, contains Hyaluronic Acid and Zinc Gluconate, Manganese Gluconate and Copper Gluconate additionally to Madecassoside. This will nourish your skin. Zinc Gluconate, Manganese Gluconate and Copper Gluconate are strong anti-oxidants and are essential elements for well functioning healthy skin. They also play a key role in collagen, fibroblast production and promotes epithalization of the skin and cell dividion, growth and renewal of cells.Has anti-bacterial and anti-acne properties. Effectively fights skin aging by protecting all proteins from glycation, especially those of the dermis. Proteins remain functional longer for a stronger consequently skin is more supple and even toned.
The product is fragrance free and comes in a practical tube with a tottle dispenser. It is also relatively lower priced compared to LRP products and products that will contain so many efficient actives. Otherwise it is a very pleasant silicone gel that settles into a flattering silky finish after application. It is also hydrating.

For day time you can also use Mac Studio Moisture SPF 15 with 3.5% OMC and 6.7% ZnO and a good combination of anti-oxidants. You can use this moisturizer alone even without a serum.

Thanky very much for such comprehensive answer )
I will look and buy products you recommend. As for vitamin C serum - is it needed to prepare it DIY (may be you can recommend ready to mix kit for it) or there are some commercial products exists on the market ?
Is previously mentioned Clinique Even Better serum belongs to this kind ?

P.S. I googled this DIY kit. http://www.lotioncra...c-acid-kit.html
Is it good ?

Thanks in advance )

Thank you.
Frankly, I can not thank you enough, Eva )
I think I will buy Even Better Serum first, because can do it instantly, and this will be a thing to compare with laterly. And will search for ingridients in internet and locally to try your recepy.
Thank you again )

[JeremyPJme]

Hello Eva!

I have noticed that sometimes the same sunscreen, when tinted, lowers its efficacy. Why is that? And this always occur if you tint a sunscreen?

Have a nice day.

[mustardseed41]

This is the second batch of DIY Skinceuticals CE Ferulic that I've made. It is an exact copy of the original, so I would not fear 20% Ethoxydiglycol in the formula. Time tested and proven formula is the original. The first batch I made, I froze the 7 individual bottles that were not being used. Maybe not such a good idea. I had crystal like matter at the bottom of the bottle when finished.
The second batch I did not pour into all 7 individual bottles. Just put the unused portion in the fridge.
The next time I make a batch I will add the vitamin C separately from the base formula and add when I am ready to fill individual bottle.
The math may be a lil tricky as to the exact amount but I'll give it a shot.

[BDon]

Eva,

Do you know anything about Cinnamon being great for expelling water out of one's system (diuretic) and being that I heard it's amazing for thinning skin in obesity?

[Eva Victoria]

Hi Jeremy,

I have to admit I did not notice this. Usually adding a "tint" will increase the mineral content of the product. Iron Oxides are often used to colour products. They are UV protectors (although not officially) and should increase the UV protecting ability of the product.

Hello Eva!

I have noticed that sometimes the same sunscreen, when tinted, lowers its efficacy. Why is that? And this always occur if you tint a sunscreen?

Have a nice day.

This is the second batch of DIY Skinceuticals CE Ferulic that I've made. It is an exact copy of the original, so I would not fear 20% Ethoxydiglycol in the formula. Time tested and proven formula is the original. The first batch I made, I froze the 7 individual bottles that were not being used. Maybe not such a good idea. I had crystal like matter at the bottom of the bottle when finished.
The second batch I did not pour into all 7 individual bottles. Just put the unused portion in the fridge.
The next time I make a batch I will add the vitamin C separately from the base formula and add when I am ready to fill individual bottle.
The math may be a lil tricky as to the exact amount but I'll give it a shot.

Freezing is definitely not a good idea.
The best is, as you have mentioned, prepare a larger batch, keep it in the fridge and add Ascorbic Acid to the portion that is being used.

[Eva Victoria]

Eva,

Do you know anything about Cinnamon being great for expelling water out of one's system (diuretic) and being that I heard it's amazing for thinning skin in obesity?

Sorry BDon, I really don't know. But I am sure there are some people on this forum who might know the answer.

What I know that there are several good topical actives out there that have very good effect on making the dermis thicker and the skin more resilient. (Palmitoyl Oligopeptide, Zinc Gluconate, Magnesium Gluconate, Vitamin B5 to name a few).

Edited by Eva Victoria, 22 January 2013 - 08:57 AM.

[happy lemon]

Eva,

I saw an advice in the blog of a dermatologist that we might apply chemical sunscreen first and then layer it with a physical one.

Is it necessary? Do you that it is a good suggestion for both UVA & UVB protection?

[Vyrez]

Eva,

I'm 21 years old male. I have an acne-prone which gets clogged really easily. I have hard time finding a good moisturizer/sunscreen which doesn't clog my pores. Any recommendations? Im afraid using silicone products, I have had some dimethicone containing products from Paulas Choice before and they seemed to clog my pores.

I have annoying redness and enlarged pores around the cheek area near nose and on nose, any advice? So far only thing which has helped has been retin-a and drinking lots of water.

What about body acne, I have small bumps on back, shoulders and chest. I have tried 2% BHA and 10% AHA, PB and retin-a but seems like they only make things worse.

[Ch!ggy]

Hi Eva,

I have just found a very comfortable high spf 50 UVB/UVA sunscreen called Frezyderm Sun Screen Velvet, it’s not greasy, water resistant and has a nice feel on the skin and no whitening. I like it but not sure if it’s really offering me the protection it claims and I’m also concerned it might be toxic in some way. I can't find any real reviews of the product on Google only 1 suspicious review on Amazon.

Are you familiar with it at all and do you think its ok?

Thanks,

Chiggy.

[JeremyPJme]

Eva,

I saw an advice in the blog of a dermatologist that we might apply chemical sunscreen first and then layer it with a physical one.

Is it necessary? Do you that it is a good suggestion for both UVA & UVB protection?

Hi,

Obviously not Eva here but I suggest that:

You can benefit more by finding a reliable sunscreen and use it along with an antioxidant serum (like c e ferulic, skinceuticals) instead of using two at the same time. Just like she stated somewhere before in this post, no sunscreen can protect you completely. No matter how many products you layer, there will be damage in some degree and free radicals generated in the repair process; an antioxidant serum could add that extra protection.

But if you insist, I would recommend one of them to be 100% physical protection, this way you minimize possible interactions between filters (one containing Avobenzone and other Octinoxate for example).

Use the chemical first and let it dry before applying the other. Don't worry if the one that goes under is a bit oilier than usual; makes it easier to apply the other over it and avoid unecessary scrubbing since physical sunscreens tend to be thicker and harder to spread.
Apply the one that goes on top by tapping and minimal spreading, instead of rubbing, so you prevent one from removing the other.

Be aware that mixing products can dilute them and by consequence diminish their action. If you use one that has spf40 and other with spf30, you might be getting something in between or even less than that, considering the amount manufacturers recommend.

Hope this helps!

ps: wait for Eva's opinion, she understands way more than I do.

[Eva Victoria]

I think it is unnecessary and very unpractical.

Rather choose a sunscreen that provides broad-spectrum protection (has anti-oxidants) and apply it liberally.

Eva,

I saw an advice in the blog of a dermatologist that we might apply chemical sunscreen first and then layer it with a physical one.

Is it necessary? Do you that it is a good suggestion for both UVA & UVB protection?

[Eva Victoria]

Sorry to hear this.
Am not an expert, but I just read some interesting findings about the connection between wheat and sugar consumption and acne. they say that high GI (blood sugar) increases the possibility of acne.

I think Retin-A and a 2% BHA product is a good line of defense.
As suncreen, I would recommend a sunscreen with ZnO. It'll feel drier and also has anti-inflammatory properties, besides broad-spectrum UV protection. If it is combined with TiO2 or OMC is fine as well.

Eva,

I'm 21 years old male. I have an acne-prone which gets clogged really easily. I have hard time finding a good moisturizer/sunscreen which doesn't clog my pores. Any recommendations? Im afraid using silicone products, I have had some dimethicone containing products from Paulas Choice before and they seemed to clog my pores.

I have annoying redness and enlarged pores around the cheek area near nose and on nose, any advice? So far only thing which has helped has been retin-a and drinking lots of water.

What about body acne, I have small bumps on back, shoulders and chest. I have tried 2% BHA and 10% AHA, PB and retin-a but seems like they only make things worse.

Sorry, I don't know it.
Can you post the ingredients? It'll be easier to say something about it then.

Hi Eva,

I have just found a very comfortable high spf 50 UVB/UVA sunscreen called Frezyderm Sun Screen Velvet, it’s not greasy, water resistant and has a nice feel on the skin and no whitening. I like it but not sure if it’s really offering me the protection it claims and I’m also concerned it might be toxic in some way. I can't find any real reviews of the product on Google only 1 suspicious review on Amazon.

Are you familiar with it at all and do you think its ok?

Thanks,

Chiggy.

[Heyman]

First off, thank you for your awesome advice! I registered right now just to ask you this question...

I'm 24 years old (25 in 3 months) and male. I'd like to keep my skin from aging and still look decent when I'm 35 or even 45. I never really cared about my skin, I don't smoke and don't drink alcohol, but I never used e.g. sunscreen.

My skin is usually rather dry, especially after showering. Sometimes I see white sheds on my face. I have a bit of wrinkles on my forehead, but not really noticeable as long as I don't wrinkle it for a prolonged time. I think I'll get some between my eyes though, already got barely noticeable ones, but I'm sure they'll progress if I don't do something and I don't want that.

What is the most important thing right now for someone who does nothing? Based on what I read from you, sunscreen, right? I read an article that claimed

According to my analysis of the study findings, one hour after a ten-minute session of UV exposure, the ingredient benzophenone-3 elevated free radicals by 64 percent compared to the control, while octyl methoxycinnamate and octocrylene boosted free radicals by 33 percent and 16 percent, respectively. (...) “Using sunscreen once in the morning could potentially be worse than not using any at all if you spend a lot of time in the sun”

Did you read that one as well? So I thought is there some sunscreen that I can just apply in the morning, that will keep me safe somewhat throughout the day, without creating more radicals? I don't expose myself to sun a lot.

I read about nano ZnO and you also seemed to recommend TiO2... Would this be better? I also read about these nano particles maybe being able to enter your skin and possibly being bad for your health, the more I read about the topic, the more conflicting stuff I hear... But this seems to be the best. Is there a solution that is good for my skin (does not create more free radicals with my limited exposure) that I don't need to constantly reapply?

What else would you recommend someone who never did anything? Retin-A is not necessary at my age, or would it be beneficial to prevent aging? What about niacinamide, peptides, retinyl? Any of these give me a benefit for the future?

Thank you very much, I'm sorry if you already covered some of my questions. I'm from germany and it seems to be not easy to find a good sunscreen that does not contain parfume or parabens or other stuff that may disrupt my hormone system, which also kind of scares me. Allmost all cosmetics seem to contain this stuff. I shouldn't have read that much scary stuff

I just like to start right now so I'm not angry with myself in 10-20 years when it is too late.

Edited by Heyman, 10 June 2013 - 05:48 PM.

[Eva Victoria]

Hi Heyman,

The best would be a sunscreen that contains microfine ZnO along with antioxidants. It is photostable and it'll last the whole day without having to reapply it.
At yor age the best is to use a light moisturizing lotion on areas that are dry. This lotion should contain some ati-oxidants like Vit. C, E, Green Tea.

Mac: Studio Moisture Lotion SPF 15 with 6.7% ZnO and 3.5% OMC can be a good solution. It will give enough hydration without the greasy feel and protect your skin (at moderate sun exposure). (Note: OMC is stabilized by ZnO.)

Retin-A and other anti-aging actives are unnecessary at your age, when skin functions at its peak.

One more thing: parabens are not as bad as the cosmetic industry tries to paint the picture. And now the SCCS has ruled parabens safe again, even in children's products.

First off, thank you for your awesome advice! I registered right now just to ask you this question...

I'm 24 years old (25 in 3 months) and male. I'd like to keep my skin from aging and still look decent when I'm 35 or even 45. I never really cared about my skin, I don't smoke and don't drink alcohol, but I never used e.g. sunscreen.

My skin is usually rather dry, especially after showering. Sometimes I see white sheds on my face. I have a bit of wrinkles on my forehead, but not really noticeable as long as I don't wrinkle it for a prolonged time. I think I'll get some between my eyes though, already got barely noticeable ones, but I'm sure they'll progress if I don't do something and I don't want that.

What is the most important thing right now for someone who does nothing? Based on what I read from you, sunscreen, right? I read an article that claimed

According to my analysis of the study findings, one hour after a ten-minute session of UV exposure, the ingredient benzophenone-3 elevated free radicals by 64 percent compared to the control, while octyl methoxycinnamate and octocrylene boosted free radicals by 33 percent and 16 percent, respectively. (...) “Using sunscreen once in the morning could potentially be worse than not using any at all if you spend a lot of time in the sun”

Did you read that one as well? So I thought is there some sunscreen that I can just apply in the morning, that will keep me safe somewhat throughout the day, without creating more radicals? I don't expose myself to sun a lot.

I read about nano ZnO and you also seemed to recommend TiO2... Would this be better? I also read about these nano particles maybe being able to enter your skin and possibly being bad for your health, the more I read about the topic, the more conflicting stuff I hear... But this seems to be the best. Is there a solution that is good for my skin (does not create more free radicals with my limited exposure) that I don't need to constantly reapply?

What else would you recommend someone who never did anything? Retin-A is not necessary at my age, or would it be beneficial to prevent aging? What about niacinamide, peptides, retinyl? Any of these give me a benefit for the future?

Thank you very much, I'm sorry if you already covered some of my questions. I'm from germany and it seems to be not easy to find a good sunscreen that does not contain parfume or parabens or other stuff that may disrupt my hormone system, which also kind of scares me. Allmost all cosmetics seem to contain this stuff. I shouldn't have read that much scary stuff

I just like to start right now so I'm not angry with myself in 10-20 years when it is too late.

Edited by Eva Victoria, 14 June 2013 - 06:23 PM.

[Heyman]

Thank you very much!! I read a lot more the last few days, lots of your posts as well. I decided a few days ago to buy this sunscreen:

http://www.burnoutsu...duct_detail&p=2

and will now think about how to mix my own vitamin c e ferulic acid for antioxidation prior to applying the sunscreen daily.

Does that sound good? Is a moisturizer needed for protection of the skin if you already use sunscreen and antioxidants, or more for aesthetic purposes? Thank you very much for your answer, it is of great help to me. I'm glad I did find this forum.

Edit: I got one more question: If you got a sunscreen with e.g. Tinosorb S that is photostable, you still need to reapply since your skin absorbs the sunscreen after an hour or two, not?

Edited by Heyman, 15 June 2013 - 03:00 PM.